The Cornwall Pilgrimage Walk follows a course from Launceston to Land’s End showing insight into an Ancient and Modern Kingdom steeped in history. Marked by St Piran Scallop shells, the route is easy to follow often adopting well-known trails such as The Saint’s Way, The Cornish Way and the coast path too.

VISION

The project has been created to raise awareness and funds for St Julia’s Hospice. It is hoped the route will attract walkers keen to explore this diverse and unique kingdom. A walking guide will be available by next spring when we hope to hold our first local pilgrimage weekend aimed at raising funds for St Julia’s Project. We are looking at printing Cornish Passports as a walking scheme so participants can obtain stamps from local churches/inns throughout the event. Certificates will be awarded to those who complete the pilgrimage. All monies raised from passport sales will be donated to St Julia’s Hospice. We hope the local inns will support our pilgrimage weekends too: though any one can walk the trail whenever they choose as this will be seen as an invitation to the wider world to visit this special region, and by doing so, support our local charities.

Wednesday 1^st September, 2010

Start: Launceston Castle

Leaving the castle grounds around 1 pm I walked down past the narrow gauge steam railway to the stream by the Abbey where I sat for a while gathering my thoughts. Today I would endeavour to walk to Altarnun on the edge of Bodmin Moor. It was a mixed affair, initiated along the Newmills Road where I stole a glimpse of the train chugging through the rustic countryside.

The narrow lane scarcely accommodated the farm machinery that I faced along the way. Nearing Newmills Farm I could hear the final celebrations of summer holiday season as families crowded the facilities beside the terminus.

Turning left I leaned into the hill as the Pilgrimage route moved away from the farm heading east to Tregadillett.

I passed several ramblers heading back to Newmills enjoying the comfort of a downhill journey. Soon I reached the village where I stopped for tea at the Eliot Arms. The ancient inn is also known as The Square and Compass dating back to Napoleonic times when the French officers were permitted a weekly visit.

Leaving the village via a paved road, the route takes in a brief blast of the A30. There is an alternative footpath to the golf course on the A395 but the general route heads up the A30 for about a mile. There is adequate walkway access along the grass verge and later there is a farm track as far as the Polyphant turn.

Here turn right and continue straight on ignoring signs to Piper’s Pool. The main signpost reads Camelford, however 2 miles on turn left at the Altarnun sign. This indicates 1 mile but I have to add it is nearer 2!!

Eventually the winding journey reached its conclusion behind the imposing church of Altarnun. The bench on the village green above the stream and humpback bridge is the place to savour a moment of magic that makes a walker’s world so rewarding.

Ascending through the church grounds leads to an even more diminutive road which forms the trail as far as the Rising Sun Inn and campsite (£5.00 per night). There is a pilgrim campsite ½ mile from the church as well. The Whole region is entirely rural and enjoys the isolation of Bodmin Moor. The charming inn with Delabole floor and Granite fireplace is an alluring place to visit serving food, local brewed ale and enjoying friendly local banter.

Thursday 2^nd September, 2010

Start: Altarnun

Leaving the campsite at The Rising Sun, turn left where the sign points to Camelford and Davidstow Aerodrome. Following the country lane for 3 miles without turning off, I came to the Route 3 sign/turn from Hallworthy. Crossing the cattle grid I walked the slim trail across the open moor with Crowdy Reservoir to my left. Away to the right a small aircraft was just taking off in front of a small audience. Keeping left, the path turns sharply away toward the forest, later skirting round Crowdy Reservoir still left of the road.

2 miles on is the turn off and 1½ mile descent to Camelford where one can visit ‘the country’s best chip shop’ and ‘Jo’s place’, the Mason’s Arms. Beyond the town is a campsite with bar and restaurant for pilgrims looking to walk that extra mile to get an affordable quality meal.

Staying on Route 3 the Pilgrimage continues to St Breward where villages en route are sparse. At Watergate I was joined by a companion eager to assure I would not get lost.

He was in fact a young lurcher who had strayed from his home to chase a few rabbits, but always returning to ensure I was on the right track!!

This episode continued to St Breward where I became concerned for the dog who was by now a long way from home.

On reaching the village I saw a lady preparing to leave her drive. Catching her attention I explained that I was walking for St. Julia’s and that the dog had adopted me as his friend. Fortunately she was a dog lover and stabled him up with food and water whilst making phone calls to the number on the dog’s tag.

I was thankful for her help and was pleased the dog was in safe hands. I would have felt awful if he had been hit by a car. His owners would have been concerned by now too, making it an all round crisis, although I felt he had enjoyed his little adventure across Bodmin Moor.

From here my journey continued away from the village store at St. Breward heading downhill toward the Camel Trail.

On reaching Wenford Bridge, I sat for a while intoxicated by the atmosphere on this warm summer afternoon.

Setting off again, the trail continues to Bodmin along the course of the old Southern Railway which once served Bodmin, Wadebridge and Padstow.

Many passed by during the last hours of sunshine amid Helligan Wood where the sound of running water drowned out any memory of traffic.

Remnants of the Old Railway remained as far as the Bodmin/Wadebridge junction where a short distance on saw me to Bodmin Gaol (not literally!!)

Leaving the “Clink” I headed into town to deliver a few leaflets, then took a short cut to the Saints Way at Lanivet.

Route 3 continues to Lanhydrock and bypassed Lanivet where I planned to stay.

Arriving before dusk the landlord of The Lanivet Inn let me camp in the beer garden.

Friday 3^rd September, 2010

Start: Lanivet

After a lovely sleep in the pub garden I was set for the day. Bidding Dee and landlord farewell I thanked them for helping me and was soon on my way amid warm morning sunshine.

Beyond Lanivet the Saints Way follows a track beside the A30 and later linking with the Cornish Way (Route 3) at the Fenton Pit signpost.

Passing many small communities the trail interchanges with off-road section through woods and pastures. There was harvest in full flow and a church roof under restoration as I endeavoured to reach Luxulyan. I had hoped to use the alternative track to Fowey which is more difficult to follow, but noticed the signs had been removed.

On reaching Luxulyan I needed a break and sat in the churchyard for a while. After some lunch I joined the Cornish Way which forms a good route through Luxulyan Valley.

What a lovely day!

At the Garden of Eden I met a German guy who had chosen a route to Charlestown, it followed the course on the left of the Eden Project: the one ahead forms an extensive journey to St Austell. Our route rejoined into Route 3 and was a pleasant experience though I was hot and thirsty on reaching Charlestown. My companion had finished for the day but my journey would continue on the coast path to Porthpean and Pentewan where I hoped to camp.

The Rashleigh Arms was alive with the spirit of tourism as was the rest of Charlestown all enjoying the splendour of its Harbour and Tallships. The Harbour was originated by Charles Rashleigh around 1799 and played an important role in shipping china clay and other local produce across the ocean.

It has since relived much of those former years as a filmset for the Onedon Line and other seafaring adventure scenes.

By now time was sailing by - already into 3 pm as I strode the coast path up the Duporth Road as far as Cornwall Hospice Care where I stopped for tea and cake.

After handing over collection money from the Lanivet Inn I chatted to the Chief Executive and his staff, explaining that we would be holding a Harvest Supper at The Fox & Hounds, Comford on 19^th September, 2010.

From here I followed the coast road into Pentewan, booked a pitch on the campsite, then went to the pub. The Ship Inn was a hive of culinary activity with an hour’s wait for food, something of a renaissance in terms of the pub trade - and long may it live on !!

Saturday 4^th September, 2010

Start: Pentewan Campsite

Pentewan was a scene of fun at the busy Ship Inn the evening before, but today portrayed a quiet front as locals and campers went about their early morning business.

Soon I was on my way along the steep coast path to Mevagissey. There was a spatter of rain in the wind as I descended to the Harbour which was a busy scene for early morning.

No wonder, the Morris Dancers were on parade! But I still managed to beat my way through the crowds to the nearest café to indulge in a much-needed breakfast.

Having achieved that I resumed the task of delivering donation envelopes to local businesses who were all keen to support the idea.

From here I followed the path down to Port Mellon leaving the late season furore behind - it was great to see so many folk enjoying themselves in the height of recession.

Time was marching on and mother called to tell of a disastrous earthquake in Christchurch - a much-loved city of mine and part of a kingdom I’ve walked from end to end. The news was devastating!

Moving on in sombre thought I encountered Caerhays Castle reaching the destination by footpath from the Cornish Way.

Here I stopped for tea and a paddle in the sea of Porthluncy Cove a popular sunspot for tourists pursuing the Roseland Coast.

Setting off again I used the coast path to reach Portholland which was little more than a hamlet patronised by a few curious tourists and a group of local bathers.

Stepping up the tempo I continued along the coast path to Portloe which from the cliff top is a picture postcard image of a Cornish Fishing Village.

The local Inn supplied me with water and from here I scaled the hill to the top of the road where I used the Cornish Way to Pendower Bay.

It was now time to leave the coastline and its ice-cream loving tourists behind and head toward the King Harry Ferry to cross the River Fal. At the top of the road there was the Truro/St.Mawes main route to encounter, but once the Cornish Way turned off, it revisited much of the rural effect associated with Roseland. A few hills, a couple of tractors and cattle that seemed captivated by my every move. Only the electric fence slowed down their interest and I managed to reach Philleigh and The Roseland Inn unscathed.

Having enjoyed a pint and replenished my water stock I marched on The King Harry Ferry where I had a 20 minute wait. In that time I consumed some of my army ration pack, and sat back to enjoy the tranquil crossing where only a speed boat sought to disrupt the harmony.

Leaving the water’s edge I kicked on up the hill with the knowledge that there would be no traffic behind me for a while at least. As usual Trelissick Gardens were still enjoying the public’s attention and a mile or so on I turned left towards Feock.

This was a peaceful section, almost in solitude as I passed some lovely church buildings. Luckily I caught the attention of some local cyclists bound for the Quayside Inn. They advised me to walk the shore to Point and follow the old tramroad to the Inn.

I arrived just before dusk and pitched a tent down by the Quay. By 8.30 I was supping ale in the Quayside with a meal on its way.

Sunday 5^th September, 2010

Start: Devoran Quay

With heavy rain all night I woke early in a wet tent. Fortunately I dismantled quickly with minimal fuss and was soon caped up for the oncoming storm.

Following the Portreath tram road showed a great insight into Cornwall’s Industrial History and despite the weather I enjoyed the landscape initially dominated by Carnon Viaduct. Other travellers sharing the route included dog walkers and numerous cyclists. By the time I reached Bissoe, the cycle hire/café was a hub of activity hosting it’s local Sunday morning meet. Each week cyclists unite for a morning session along the tram road and it was evident that the weather was no deterrent.

I stayed long enough to sample tea and home-made cake before resuming my effort along the sodden ground.

At twelveheads I followed the Carharrack Trail overlooking Crofthandy which gave a lovely journey to my home at Trevince Parc.

Later that evening I joined Carol & Co at the Fox and Hounds where we were all excited about the St. Julia’s Harvest Supper. The schedule included a whole range of prizes including a date with barmaid Jody who is Cornwall’s answer to Julia Bradbury!

Monday 6^th September, 2010

Start: Carharrack

Starting in pouring rain, I progressed slowly to Redruth via Lanner where I delivered a few envelopes. After visiting the Bank I headed off to the leisure centre and then to the Great Flat Lode Trail which I used along with Route 3 to reach Camborne.

Continuing along Route 3 I walked through Carnhell Green and later St.Erth. Leaving the Cornish Way Route, I descended to Hayle Estuary which I followed round to Lelant.

At the church, I followed the St. Michael’s Way around the golf course ,which despite flooding, still attracted many participants. In fact the rain had failed to dampen the enthusiasm of many, as many walkers were enjoying the Coast Path. The sky had cleared and the temperature was warm enough to enjoy a stroll. After a brief interval at The Carbis Bay Hotel I broke away from the St. Michael’s Route to conclude today’s walk along the Coast Path to St. Ives, finishing at 6.30 pm at the Backpackers.

Tuesday 7^th September, 2010

Start: St. Ives Backpackers

After a photo-shoot with Toby from The Times & Echo, I left via the Carbis Bay road where I rejoined the St. Michael’s Way at the Cornish Arms.

Turning left up Steeple Lane, I passed the Nature reserve where I chatted to a lady hiker keen to explore the coppice. I continued up hill to Knills Monument then following the sign I descended to Laity Lane. After a mile by road I took an off-road path round a Manor to the next lane. Crossing the road the footpath now entered some pastures where I met a very attractive lady exercising her dogs. She shouted to me from across the fence and I was astonished to see her emerge from practically thin air.

She had used the adjacent field to avoid conflict with grazing cattle which generally take offence to dogs interrupting their lunch.

We chatted for ages and after, I ascended to Trencrom Hill where my journey followed a course through the woods and back out on the road.

Next I was walking through a back garden, though a residential house in contemporary times, it was in former days a church. The path crossed more fields, another farmyard, and later a ford. Reaching the top of the road from the ford, I had a clear view of St. Michael’s Mount and Ludgvan Church which was my next destination. Stopping at the White Hart in Ludgvan I drank 2 sodas whilst chatting to the Landlord who was also planning to host a Harvest Supper this month for St. Julia’s Hospice.

Moving on again the Pilgrimage crossed several fields on descent, the A30 and the Railway Track which runs through a Nature Reserve.

I spoke to a birdwatcher as we crossed the Railway, making comments about the weather and flooding. After negotiating the boardwalk over the marshes, I joined the coast path at Marazion, delivering envelopes on my way into Penzance.

At 4.00 pm I decided to have a meal at Wetherspoons and after the break I left the town in pursuit of the St. Just Road. Initially this was good with a path to walk, but 1½ miles from Newbridge it disappeared leaving no other choice than to turn left onto the Sancreed Road which proved less trouble, making it a good Pilgrim Route.

It is not necessary to go to Sancreed, instead the backroad heads to St. Just linking with the main road again ¾ mile from the town. From the Sancreed turn it was a straight forward run into town where I arrived at a cantor at the point of dusk (8.30). A few minutes later I booked into a B & B and after retraced my footsteps to local Inns that still hold fond memories of great journeys of yesteryear.

Wednesday 8^th September, 2010

Start: St. Just

Feeling the benefit of a B & B for a change, I enjoyed a sunny start as I made my way down towards Cape Cornwall. Marking the Pilgrim Route at the footpath sign on the left of the cricket club.

Walking diagonally across the farmyard I soon picked up the Coast Route where many people were making the most of a dry day along the footpath.

Passing the YHA footpath I climbed to the high ground which was a bit of an obstacle course cultivated from the coastlines of ancient granite stones.

By 11 am I had sight of Whitesand Bay where the tide was ebbing allowing me the choice of a beach route. At Sennen Cove I delivered envelopes before overtaking 100 Germans whilst avoiding the temptation of singing World War II War Songs!

Arriving at Land’s End after 12 pm, I posed at the signpost to conclude yet another epic journey. Once away from the action I visited the Dr Who museum and spent an hour in the company of the Daleks who were protesting about the amount of humans on the premises. Just wait till the Germans arrive - that’ll cheer them up!!

Leaving the tourist action behind I had only one thing on my mind - The Harvest Supper on Sunday 19^th September at The Fox & Hounds, Comford, where we hope to conclude our fundraising appeal for St. Julia’s Hospice.