NEWS REPORT 2010-02-03
WORLDWIDE APPEAL AND DIARY OF RECENT WALK IN SOUTH AFRICA.
THE MBEKWENI TOWNSHIP
CRICKET SCHOOL
Twelve years ago Merwe Genis had a vision for young children to be given a better opportunity to play cricket in Paarl. The cricket school has become a successful means for children to not only learn about the game, but also more importantly gain valuable experience in developing their skills to tackle life.
I have known Merwe for over 10 years in which time he has made a valuable contribution to our cricket club at Oundle as well as coaching at the public school. Since travelling, playing cricket and walking coast-to-coast of South Africa I have learnt much about the way of life here and feel that now is the time to put something back into a country that has been good to me.
As a founding member of the Barmy Army I have spent many times on charity walks representing our organisation in a positive way that helps people who are less privileged. Recently the Barmy Army raised £1000 for a township cricket club in Rhondabosch and whilst attending the test match at Cape Town I made my mind up to take this a stage further and offer Merwe’s Cricket School a help in hand by walking around the Wine Lands to raise awareness and launch a world-wide appeal to help the Mbekweni Township.
Our costs include coaching fees of over R1000 per week;
we require funding for all cricket equipment;
food, drinks and petrol for transport.
We appeal for sponsorship from companies; donation of equipment (recycled if in good condition).
Donations of food and even spare to time to help with coaching.
We welcome any support on a worldwide scale.
Anybody wishing to help this worthy cause please contact:
Merwe Genis on: 082 575 7107.
Email: probol@hotmail.com
Donations can be sent to the Manyano Methodist Centre: 021 872 2537.
Email: manyano@eject.co.za
Address: Manyano Methodist Centre,
Paarl, 7620
Western Cape South Africa.
Look out for updates from this site: www.robin-moore.co.uk
To research further read:
PAARL POST: January/February editions.
THE FRANSCHHOEK VALLEY: To be published in March.
THANK YOU FOR READING THIS LEAFLET
WALKING THE WINELANDS FOR MBEKWENI
DAY 1 PAARL TO WELLINGTON
In hot, draining conditions, I set off from the Manyano Methodist Centre which was my home base throughout this tour of South Africa. Paarl is an important centre within a region renown for its wine production and as I neared the end of town the landscape was dominated by vineyards. Turning right along the Wellington Road, I passed a wine cellar situated opposite a primary school where children stood in the roadside awaiting their ride home.
To the east lies Mbekweni: my final destination in roughly a week’s time and 2 miles on I saw the snake park which I last visited in 2005. Stopping there briefly I indulged in fluid and changed my sodden shirt – a product of sheer sweat caused by draining heat; unlike of the mandatory rainy days in England which affect a similar result. I did however wish I was walking in English temperatures instead of tortuous heat on a dry dusty road plagued with insects.
Continuing my journey I passed a dam where the only fisherman in sight was a heron who was clumsy enough to drop his catch on take off. Perhaps I startled him, as he made no effort to return to amend his error though I doubt he would go hungry for long as the lake, rich in vegetation, looked to be one of nature’s finest restaurants. A little further on the guys from Manyano sped past in a car waving and singing Barmy Army songs to cheer me on.
At the end of a road was a café where I turned right and walked to a large bridge where teatime traffic was building up making the walk a little more unpleasant. Wellington was now in sight though I felt tired and weak with little desire to power-march into town: instead I ambled through the busy thoroughfare greeting locals as I passed by. Generally people were friendly, acknowledging my effort, and overall I felt enriched by my journey. Most stimulating was what it offered in terms of culture, historical charm and architectural heritage. The transition of dusty scrubland to endless miles of orchards and vineyards broken by affluent colonial buildings creates a unique diversity, which is in itself an attraction to those who visit this prolific region.
Once inside the town I stopped at the Tourist Office to assess my geography and with a little help from the staff was able to locate the street where my host for the night, Nicole lived. She phoned to say she would pick her girls up from school, which gave me a bit more time to explore the town and later I enjoyed a rooibos tea and a chat with the security guard, who by chance, lived at Mbekweni in Paarl.
Nicole is a friend who I met at De Luga's Restaurant in Paarl which she owns and manages. I often go there for breakfast and enjoy chatting to the friendly staff about cricket and all my walking adventures.
By early evening I had located Nicole’s house along Commissioner Street and soon we were enjoying a bottle of wine by the pool. Nicole had to return to work that night so I settled down after sunset and enjoyed a good night’s rest, knowing tomorrow would bring a testing journey over The Bainskloof Pass.
DAY 2 WELLINGTON TO THE BUSH INN
Leaving Nicole’s house around 7am, I wandered through Main Street eventually coming to the church where I found the turn off to Ceres and Worcester. Wellington is an architectural jewel celebrated in its rich Cape Dutch homesteads and Victorian structures, situated in a picturesque valley at the foot of Groenberg Mountain. I was now set to cross the famous Bainskloof Pass, built by Andrew Geddes in 1853 later becoming known as the frontier to the north. As the road weaved in and out of the mountains it provided an awe-inspiring overview of the region’s finely manicured vineyards as well as exposing its visitors to its own geological masterpiece enjoyed from picnic areas, campsites and natural rock pools fuelled by cool running waterfalls and cascades.
By 8am it was already hot and stopping to chat to the workers at a cellar: one guy called Adam Timotheus remembered our 2003 cricket tour here when we visited for wine tasting and lunch. He was still working here and was also training to be a vicar. After exchanging details for future correspondence, he fetched some ice water and warned of baboons wandering the high ground: so shortly after leaving I found a stick to walk with lest there be any confrontation with these fiercesome beasts.
As the heat glared across the pass, exceeding 40c in some places, I made frequent stops at the picnic viewing points. Here I could relax in the shade and as the road climbed high into the mountain I was treated to panoramic views of Wellington with its great white church standing out as a prestigious landmark. As the path wound round to the next point displaying a valley with small broken communities, I ran into a German group who praised my efforts and bought a couple of books from me. They were touring the wine lands as part of their vacation chosen through familiarity and their love of the place.
By noon I was starting my descent though the temperature remained unforgiving trapped in between the rocks like the heat of an oven. The air was calm without a breeze and the terrain only welcome to lizards and snakes that were able to shelter in the cracks of the mountains. I saw a few tadpoles and frogs immersed in some water that had collected in a drain. Further on were a couple of guys mending a road bridge: here and for the rest of the way is a drop of several hundred feet into the gorge. They wished me well as I soldiered on mindful of traffic that at times drove a little fast given the immediate hazards that frequent the pass; going over the top offers little chance of survival which remains a stark reality for all of us.
It was interesting to watch the different creatures emerge from the rocks though I was never once tempted to overturn a rock. One never knows who may reside in these parts: snakes in particular do not like intruders and all said and done this is their home we are walking through! I can understand and sympathise with the snake, but then again I have no desire to go and shake his hand either!
Unbelievably I came across a restaurant though sadly it was closed as the cook was undergoing a complicated operation on her neck. The owner was kind all the same and gave me some fruit and purchased a copy of my Barmy Army charity walk book.
After some nourishment I paused for a while at some plaques and epitaphs in honour of Andrew Geddes who built the pass. From here the pass becomes even narrower and I was relieved to stop again at a campsite called The Tweede Tol Holiday Resort where the Nature Conservation Warden, Bruce Leuw let me have use of the facilities including a visit to the rock pools where many were bathing in the fresh clear waters. There were 3 waterfalls there enjoyed vigorously by a party of children here on a camping holiday. There were other families too enjoying a picnic and after a refreshing soak I returned to talk to Bruce and the guys. One chap lived in Paarl and joked with me that it had taken 8 years for him to return here to visit – it had only taken me a day! I guess we all postpone things from time to time and any way at least he got there eventually and was enjoying the fruits of his effort. What a lovely place for the guys to enjoy a reunion after many years away. During the conversation I learnt that I was only 10km away from the next stop, which happened to be the Calabash Bush Inn. There was a chance I could obtain accommodation here and given the draining hot weather I would gladly settle for that. The pub was on the Worcester Ceres junction, which was better than having to walk into Ceres itself leaving only about 35km for tomorrow’s hike to Worcester.
Bading farewell I returned to the task, which was almost instantaneous trauma, and I struggled to contend with the ordeal. Passing by at great speed were 6 ambulances destined for the top end of the pass where I could only assume there had been an awful accident remembering that the speed limit should not exceed 60km.
Approaching the Worcester/Ceres junction I came across the inn and in total exhaustion felt relieved to find somewhere to shelter. The proprietor Suzanne let me stay in the bunkhouse free of charge and after a shower I ordered steak and salad for my evening meal. Although still warm, I enjoyed a pleasant evening on the balcony waiting for sunset before retiring to a somewhat restless night.
DAY 3 THE CALABASH BUSH INN TO WORCESTER
With the heat so intense I slept outside amid the call of the wild: I had a spider for company, the occasional mosquito and there was a small bird, which was now resident in the billet. I could also hear the cry of a larger beast, which the warden told me was a cheetah that lives at the top of the mountains. As dawn broke the call of nature echoed across the landscape giving me newfound energy for the day ahead. I felt grateful for this moment and the fact I’d overcome a difficult first obstacle along this great journey. Enjoying the cool air I marched to the road junction passing many youngsters on their way to school. Following a bush trail near to the road I could now see the sun poking through the orchards where already the land workers were harvesting their crop. At present it was peaches and a farmer pulled up on his motorbike and offered me some for breakfast. We chatted for a while about the cricket series, which had proved to be one of the greatest contests between the two sides and also on an international scale. The guy also went on to explain the adventure side to the terrain, which also offered a mountain hike to Ceres encountering deep gorges where only a helicopter could gain access. A journey on this scale would require an undertaking of several days and he hoped to take his son one day with a view to instilling valuable character-building experience that would prove beneficial in years to come.
My own journey, testing as it was, also showed good insight into the regions resources: as well as orchards there were vineyards harvested for wine sold in the Breede Valley. A short distance on and I found another Cellar near the roadside and also a shop opposite where I bought some pilchards. Chatting to the owner who was impressed with the idea behind my walk, said that God had given me a purpose in life, which would also create a positive knock on effect in a country still blighted by poverty. It is nice to give food away or make financial contributions but at the end of the day it is better to teach those less fortunate how to fish rather than do the fishing for them. If we fail to achieve this then all we can expect is a lot of fishermen and no fish! In other words it would be great to build a cricket school for the township people of Mbekweni for example, but it is the issues of maintenance that will remain the greater challenge if it is to succeed in the long term. For anything to gain its true value in life requires it to be respected for life.
Pondering over the philosophies of African life I sat by the Cellar for a while, and before heading off I dropped in a leaflet about my campaign, explaining that I was appealing on behalf of the township for help with our cricket school. The next stage of the journey passes beyond the Rawsonville junction- roughly 10km from Worcester, the most centrally situated town in the Breede Valley. The heat induced me to make a couple more stops: one at a small farm community whose inhabitants came to greet me and listen to the details of my campaign. I saw another guy on the road laden with a backpack: he was trying to hitch a ride with little success. I guess it can’t be easy trying to get a lift in an often-tumultuous part of Africa. I had not seen too many problems apart traffic incidents, though I did walk into an armed robbery in Cape Town a couple of weeks ago!
Entering Worcester, engulfed by spectacular mountains captures the very essence of a great wine centre described by many as a gem of the Breede Valley. My accommodation was a good walk from the town near to the Blind Association. Worcester is famous for its institutes and schools for deaf and blind people and appropriately launched the first Braille Wine Bottle here. The bottle epitomises the integrity and spirit of the town known for its exclusive wines and also houses the largest brandy-distilling cellar in the world.
Ticking off the last outposts of the area I managed to find my hosts at Jasmin House, which turned out to be a lovely self-catering hostel where I was, charged just R150 for the night. The guys also took me back in town to purchase food items and a couple of beers. On returning the students were enjoying an evening in the college grounds nearby but despite the hub I slept soundly until first light the next day.
DAY 4 WORCESTER TO PAARL
Leaving around 7am I walked beyond the town crossing the railway bridge and shortly after joining the N1. Tony had planned to link up with me around 9am and drop off John, one of the Cape Cricket Academy coaches who had arranged to walk to Paarl with me that day.
Having powered into the day I managed to cover 16km by the time they arrived. Once equipped and supplied with water we set off with little more that 43km to reach Paarl, providing we can access the side tunnel, which runs through the mountain for 8km of the journey.
All around were awe-inspiring mountains, streams running close by and many bridges to cross. The glare of the heat rising from the road indicated the intensity of walking out here. The roads were so hot our boots melting and it is inconceivable that blisters will form as a result of continual power marching of up to 50km a day. The captivating scenery helped give some solace throughout the day though our concentration remained at a peak given impetus of weekend traffic. Crossing another bridge we came across a truck driver whose load was tilting perilously to the left and we wondered how much further he dared to travel. He was desperately trying to pull the support ropes tighter as the only means of securing his load. We hoped he would pull in at the next weighbridge 2 km back towards Worcester as the problem could only realistically be solved with a forklift or crane. Before pressing on we wished him well giving thoughts of his and other peoples’ safety. I’m afraid health and safety regulations have not quite filtered through from the West as yet and I am less inspired by the general work practises here: often found wanting and at times frightfully inadequate.
20km from Paarl we stopped at a Wine Cellar for a rest in the shade and later we asked the guy to top up our water containers. Before leaving we distributed more leaflets and made our way to the tunnel with some trepidation. On reaching the point we met a hiking party who had been exploring the streams and waterfalls that run close by. They were finished for the day and heading back to Worcester in transport provided for the outing.
We could only use the emergency tunnel next to the N1 as the main one was full of Carbon Monoxide, which could only yield a painful journey. The light inside was dim and we were mindful of potholes, and after only 3km into the tunnel, the security forces – sirens and all apprehended us! I just waved and carried on walking but when the guy demanded an explanation I showed him a leaflet and explained that this was the only logical way to continue on the N1. He agreed and after a quick phone call to his boss he let us continue. The light became better and the next hour passed quickly with the cooler conditions to lighten our burden. Coming out of the tunnel was a great relief the instant heat that greeted us was the equivalent of walking into a sauna. Then we had the ordeal of walking over the motorway bridge with its pillars rising hundreds of feet above the ground. It was an eerie adrenalin pumped session as we met heavy goods traffic head on with only a small barrier to prevent the sheer drop of several hundred feet. Some of the drivers were inconsiderate and drove straight at us with bellowing horns trying to force us over the bridge. This intimidation would again have been considered illegal and irresponsible elsewhere as there times when I thought my next step would be 300 metres or more – not much fun without a bungee rope! I also revisited the breakdown scene witnessing other truckloads on the road with the similar wilting cargo. Boy we were glad to pass beyond that bridge and restore some sanity into the journey where others it seems, flourish in an insane world set to test all-comers on a daily basis. Soon we were able to join a Paarl junction: it was the wrong one and so we walked a few kms further than otherwise intended. Nonetheless we finished before 6pm and after a beer in La Romantica bar, we headed back to Manyano where Tony and Tineke treated us to a lovely supper.
There was a church group staying at Manyano so I stayed at Tony’s place, and despite the musical entertainment, which is integral to the group, I slept blissfully feeling satisfied and grateful for a journey of great adventure.
DAY 5 PAARL TO FRANSCHHOEK
Paarl is the third oldest town in South Africa and indeed one of the longest I have walked through during my entire lifetime. It has a blend of architecture and is steeped in history: most recently in the wake of Apartheid Nelson Mandela spent the latter part of his prison life at Drakenstein Prison. I guess his long walk to freedom was mightier than any other journey made here as the ending portrays the ultimate transition of prisoner to president. What a wonderful story that has shaped the social landscape of this country and which has become a great example to the wider world. Paarl also houses the oldest Dutch Reformed Church in the country, which is still in use. Restaurants and bistros are popular here and we always recommend a trip to De Lugas, La Romantica or Bosanovas: these have been my favourite places since my visit here in 2003. There is a Tourist Office also and plenty of shops, craft centres and places to visit including the museum. On leaving town I could see the prominent white stone feature that sits at the top of Paarl Mountain which happens to be the only language monument in existence, erected in 1975 to represent the Afrikaans language deemed the youngest in the world.
I was so engrossed with the scenery that I completely missed the turnoff to Franschhoek and had to scale the next bridge along the N1, which served both Goat Farm at Fairview and the byway to Simonsvai and fortunately the Franschhoek turn. The road police were monitoring a walking event and confirmed that I could make my way from here along the quieter lane.
It was heart-warming passing all the locals making their way to church: some of the services were held outside and to see those smiling faces and hear those lovely hymns gave me strength for the day ahead. People were full of cheer and so grateful to God for another wonderful week of life and for the next 2 hours I passed over a hundred people.
At the Stellenbosch turn I still had a further 18km to walk though I was grateful for a pavement most of the way. Opposite was the old Cape Railway line which appeared redundant and used only by locals in lieu of the road. There was a picnic park along the way and I stopped for water at the next Cellar where the guard let me rest awhile. My vest was dry by the time I set off again and soon the vineyards flanked the road as fine colonial buildings once again dominate the roadside. Franschhoek is a quiet little corner of Europe enjoying its Frenchness and its status as ‘The Gourmet Capital of South Africa’. The place has over 20 restaurants including the lovely railway station, which has been converted to meet the needs of this culinary revolution. After a snack from ‘Pick and Pay’ I ventured up to my hosts at the top of town were glad to see me advised me were I could obtain a good meal in town.
Whilst perusing the French Connection, admiring European facades and gift shops I managed to find an English pub called the Elephant and Barrel where I enjoyed a plate of liver and onions with mash, and a couple of beers in a background of soft music. So relaxing and soothing the music that on returning home I slept without waking until sunrise the next day.
DAY 6 FRANSCHHOEK TO SIMONBURG CHRISTIAN CENTRE.
Refreshed and rejuvenated I set about a nourishing breakfast of beans on toast and conducted an interview with the Franschhoek Valley Monthly newspaper. On completion Tony arrived to spend a day on the road, which should yield a further 50km.
Leaving the town behind we enjoyed a cooler day with breeze to assist our effort. Passing the wine cellars reminded me that the tradition of wine making is still one of the reasons why visitors choose this location. As well as its picture postcard scenery and French cuisine much of its prestige is attained from award-winning wines of different styles housed in over 40 cellars and 12 winery restaurants.
For the first 18km we literally retraced my footsteps of the previous day though most of which was very pleasant. We passed the picnic park and stopped at a few quiet little corners of the land that made our journey so much more fulfilling.
Turning right on to the Stellenbosch Road we walked in awe of the beautiful mountain range named ‘The Devil’s Staircase’ owing to the difficult and unforgiving terrain. Roadworks enabled us to progress more efficiently with safer passage and although Tony was suffering with blistered feet we managed to find a stick to make his walk more comfortable. We stopped at a lovely little restaurant where the receptionist gave us a meal and thanked us for trying to help the township. By the time we finished our clothes were dry and after thanking the lady we continued with a spring in our step.
Reaching Stellenbosch by teatime meant an arduous session against the teatime traffic and on finding the Paarl junction we enjoyed some shade under a tree and rested for a while. Stellenbosch is the heart of the wine industry and home to South Africa’s oldest university dating back to 1866. It reminds a little bit of Cambridge and we were fortunate enough to play cricket here with Oundle Badgers back in 2003. As well as the beauty and atmosphere of the town the culture is steeped in South African tradition with its history reflected in its neo-Dutch, Georgian and Victorian architecture. Its wine route is probably the most famous in the country and often visited by The Barmy Army whenever we are on tour here.
At 6pm we decided to press on though Tony was feeling the pain and decided to slow up. The traffic was still belting through but I felt we had less than 10km left in the day. The sun dropped low in the sky as I passed the next village I knew we were only a short distance now. By chance I stopped at the next junction to wait for Tony to emerge and whilst admiring the impressive cannon gun at an access to a winery I noticed a sign reading ‘Simonburg Christian Centre’. What a great result as I had expected to walk a further 3km at least. It was almost dusk when Tony arrived and together we walked along the lane into the Christian Centre. On reaching our destination we were greeted by Estelle who took us up to the house where we enjoyed a welcome cup of tea. Later Timeke picked Tony up and I finished the day chatting to Estelle and her family whilst enjoying a hearty supper. I was so grateful that they had offered to help me and slept well in the knowledge that I had made many new friends on this recent adventure.
DAY 7 SIMONBURG TO MBEKWENI
After breakfast and a prayer for the road Estelle and Esak escorted me to the cannon gun where we posed for photos to mark the occasion. I enjoyed an undulating journey across picturesque landscape of mountains and vineyards stopping at all the small businesses to spread the word of our campaign. Soon the pillars of commerce come into view and I enjoyed the chance of revisiting Simonsvei Conference Centre where the receptionist gave me some juice. I had spent many happy times here fishing with a friend Naideen and her children, Mathew and Jayne.
Walking along the dusty road I passed the junction to Fairview Goat Farm where on can enjoy cheese and wine tasting at the coast of a few rand. Soon I was entering Paarl, passing under the bridge to pace out the last few kms of the town. Delivering the remainder of the leaflets and after stopping to obtain some food from Chequers I returned to Manyano for a welcome rest and afternoon swim. After a visit from Merwe we linked up with some children from the township and under police escort we walked to Mbekweni. By the time we arrived there were a further 250 youngsters and media officials to greet us and on entering the township we celebrated with cricket and cold drinks as Patrick the headmaster of the school gave a presentation about the walk and our dream of a cricket school in Mbekweni.
POSTSCRIPT
Our work here has only just began and a long journey still lies ahead for the Mbekweni Township as we appeal to the public worldwide to help us with our quest. It is not just the task of equipping the township youngsters to enable them to reach the next level, but the maintenance of such a project which requires commitment for its long term future.
We strongly believe that the spirit created within the cricket school will teach these youngsters self-discipline and help them forge good friendships and bonding throughout the township. The cohesion that the cricket field will bring to the township will help these youngsters develop to meet the needs and demands of a changing world. It is my aim to return to South Africa to walk again for the cause and coach in this little township where I can see it develop. We need to give more to those who need help most and to teach them the respect required to maintain a life long legacy. If cricket is to survive in South Africa it needs to draw strength from guys like Ntini who have shown dedication and hard work to be the tools of success. We need first to provide a system to help them learn their craft; we have to be able maintain it and improve the facilities when appropriate. Then, perhaps one day we can inspire these youngsters to be future legends of their kingdom and the greater cricket world.
FOND MEMORIES OF SOUTH AFRICA
Robin’s travels and diaries of South Africa have now been published and will be available in Paarl next year. They are on sale at Oundle Bookshop and will also be available as an electronic feature from his website (EBOOKS).
Click on Newsletter or read Main Page for latest updates about Robin’s Charity Work.
