NEWSLETTER 2010-02-19

EASTER PILGRIMAGE CHALLENGE –

Walking 1,000 miles of Europe for

PRECIOUS LIVES APPEAL

To build ‘Little Harbour’s’

Children’s Hospice for Cornwall

Robin Moore who recently returned from South Africa where he walked the Wine Lands for Mbekweni Township in Paarl (see below on previous newsletter), is ready for his latest challenge: the all important landmark of completing his Southern Europe Trek. Each year from 2004 he has walked a pilgrimage starting from the Pyrenees; walking across Catalonia; the Basque coast from Northern France; The camino de Santiago; Caminos Portuguese/ Fatima; The Algarve and Mediterranium coast.

This time, Robin will endeavour to walk 1000 miles for THE PRECIOUS LIVES APPEAL by Easter. He hopes to start near the France/Italy border on 25^th February and walk down the Mediterranium Coast to the Province of Velencia.

Camping throughout the journey he hopes his effort of endurance will encourage the public to support him and help our campaign for Cornwall’s children. Robin gives up time to do charity walks (usually 2 per year)and funds each event himself: he has covered over 21,000 miles on Pilgrimage/ fundraising walks since 1992. He appeals to the public to support his charity walk by making a donation via his webpage at: www.chsw.org.uk

Or at our office:

8 Washingham Place,

Truro, TR1 2RP

If you wish to send a donation by post please do so by sending a cheque to: The Precious Lives Appeal (charity number: 1003314), and remember that gift aid is worth 25p in every pound donation. Every pound is another brick in the wall and hopefully soon our vision will become reality.

Also visit: www.chsw.org.uk

Or contact Mary Murfin on: 01872 261166 to help put ‘Little Harbour’ on the map.

Also you can contact Robin if you would like to sponsor him or help in any way on:

Phone: 07706197209

Now read about Robin's latest adventures in Europe and in Africa on the next page/newsletter.

DIARY OF EUROPE

IL FAIT MAUVAIS TEMPS

Beginning at Nice on Thursday 25th February all started well as I followed the coastline to Cannes and beyond. There were a few hairy moments on a coast path as 12 ft waves breach the clifftops though there was some wonderful scenery with full view of the island monastery near Cannes. Unable to find a campsite that night I bivvied up in the woods at Miramar after a 60km hike around the coast.

Early next morning I marched on to St Raphael enjoying picturesque coastline and sunny weather. Needing a shorter day I camped by the sea at Ste Maxime where I was disturbed by the ´´local madman´´. He was dressed like a warden but when he stood in the middle of the conservation area I realised he was not the real deal and had perhaps come here to let of a bit of steam. After a barrage of offensive and analytic grammer I replied ´´Je ne sais pas´´ at which point he stormed off ranting and raging: I did not receive another visit though I could hear him for some time after. Later I was disturbed again: this time by shell fishers wading the nearby rock pools: other than that it was just plain cold and any thoughts of an early morning bath where soon banished.

Continuing my coast journey along promenades and beaches exposed me to some interesting little places with inspiring names such as Cavalaire but when rain came in early that evening I booked into Hotel California, at Le Lavandouso so as to get a good night´s rest and clean up. I found the hotels in France rather expensive and was loathe to use them other than in bad weather circumstances.

Sunday looked cloudy but good for walking and I enjoyed the atmosphere of the busy market towns. I was now following the Toulon Cycle Route which gave rest bite from the chaotic road. In Toulon itself, the main issue was avoiding the motorway in order to continue out of town and onto the next point. This was often difficult and stressful as I kept taking wrong roads and generally signposts for pedestrians were non-existent. I walked way after nightfall- a distance of over 70km as far as Six-fours-les-Plages where I had to camp up by the river as I was on the point of exhaustion.

Once again it was cold and I had a visit from the police who at least understood my predicament and wished me well for the rest of the trip. I had cafe at Bandol and as the day warmed up I made the most of stops at Les Lecques and La Ciotat before heading onto the mountain pass to Marseille. I found a hotel at Cassis where I concluded the day knowing the next 2 promised a more arduous trek.

One of the highlights of the journey was the splendid view of Marseille as I descended from the mountains- it was also an epic walk through the town as well. Stopping briefly at a sports shop I purchased a small sleeping bag to add to my bivvyware which would help ensure I was shielded from the cooler night temperatures.  

Leaving town was a pain and, taking a wrong route, I had exceeded the distance required. Backtracking enough to correct the problem, I located the appropriate road which led me across a bridge where a hill and coast road beyond to a small village where I purchased groceries for the night. An hour later at the point of dusk I pitched my tent on a slight incline above the road.

A warm night´s sleep was interrupted by the patter of rain which grew heavy enough for me to abandon the site and take to the road. It was pitch black and pouring with rain as I left, though sadly was not a deterrent for speedy lorries which now dominated my journey. The day did not improve as I crossed deadly roads to negotiate Martigues and Port-de -Bouc and the only scenery to rival the depressing  docklands was that of open marshland -70km of it! There was literally nothing between here and Arles and walked in cold wet conditions non-stop to Arles amid the constant spray of lorries completing over 80km for the day. The closest I got to finding a toilet was a dike in the central reservation and there was scarcely a house in sight as the water poured out from the fields onto the traffic-filled road. When I finished the day, I was so shell-shocked I could barely find the hotel that a young girl had kindly booked for me. It is hard to describe the pain -feet throbbing from the constant pounding, skin sore from the jet spray effect of the lorries making contact with the flooded road, thirst and hunger and the fear of the relenting onslaught of traffic build a picture of despair.

Having endured heavy goods freight for the past 2 days I needed some respite and stayed in the marshlands walking a longer course via Aigues Mortas. Once more it lacked facilities though the region was compensated by its interesting wildlife as frogs croaked contentedly all day and startled beavers cannonballed into the nearby stream each time I drew near. At nightfall I continued my quest for facilities but by 10pm gave up and pitched my tent a few km from Aiges Mortes.

My tent was frozen by daybreak and I had to fold it up as best I could. Still feeling cold I pressed on towards Montpellier. This should have been an easy day- one where I could have pressed beyond the city but in the end turned out to be a disaster. I couldn't find a sign to get out of the city and each time I tried or got directions I ended up on a motorway. It was hopeless and after some advise from an American guy, who was staying in town, I had little choice but to wrap it up for the day and get a hotel - again!

The morning brought little solace and took till mid-morning to get out of town on a road which didn´t even have a sign- it was the national route and none of the locals realised it!

The first sign I saw was Beziers 65 km - that was after I walked 10km. It became a laboured affair with morale in decline, boots almost worn out and shops few and far between.The road remained dangerous and at nightfall I was relieved to pitch my tent in a park away from the traffic some where near Pezerias.

The nights were still cold and it took a while for my hands to warm up on the first session. Cafe and toast helps when you can get it and today was Sunday which was an added difficulty. Places here just close down and become ghost towns at certain times in the week and it is hard to imagine that life exists at all. It was tough -going to Beziers and I did not contemplate going much further than the next town today. Sadly as the day rolled on it became plain that I would not find any shops or adequate camp zones, and once again after walking torrid roads after nightfall I was forced into hotel accommodation - no heating, hot water or breakfast: all that for 45 euros!

Leaving in the morning with my clothes still wet from a laboured previous day I was shocked to see snow everywhere! I could hardly stand up with my worn out boots let alone walk. Stopping for cafe, the news bulletins told a tale about inclement weather from Nabonne across the border into Spain where many were trapped and had to have meals and clothing brought in. This included Narbonne Train Station which was opposite the hotel I stayed in last night.

Pressing on slowly I realised it was getting worse - there were lorries sprawled hopelessly across the main carriageway and even the motorways were affected. Snow ploughs came through without the slightest effect and I was beginning to think this was it. I kept saying make it to the border at least that links all my European walks together and is the main reason for choosing this course. I had crossed the Pyrenees before walking Catalonia from coast- to- coast and walks on the North spanned Biaritz to Santiago, Portugal and the Costa del Sol so it was imperative I finished this tour of France.

After 35km I´d had enough and luckily found a hostal with heating which did full board and bed with heating for 50 euros -I can tell you it was worth every cent!

After a hearty meal and proper night´s sleep, I enjoyed  a nourishing breakfast and set off slowly against strong prevailing winds which I struggled against all day. Not only was it cold but there was barely any clear road to walk on and sections of black ice caused some bad slips where I strained knee joints and groins.

Perpignan was a nightmare - motorists screaming at me because I´m on ´´THEIR ROAD´´ : scarcely a place to walk safely in town , oh and by the way France doesn´t do Traveller´s Cheques - too complicated!

Boy I was glad to get out of town and interested to find that traffic was at a complete standstill from here to the border. In the Pyrenees the roads run through the small border towns and there are no by-passes to accommodate the heavy goods traffic which makes this weather seem even more formidable.   However it made little difference to me as I could now walk unscathed by the daunting speeds of lorries and in a sense felt liberated by these circumstances - long may it last! I then had the job however of relaying messages and weather reports to those stuck in the long line of traffic. Once I reached Le Boulou I finished there for the day at a hostal -only 32euros- though I realised after the guy had charged me 38 - Give me a break mate!

The row of dead trucks lie well beyond the border down as far as Figueres and the road report at the border simply reads access to Spain impossible - well here we go - Avoir Francia.

The snow gradually cleared on the road itself but I could see the problems lie in towns where there is a heavy build up. They had cleared enough of one side to allow traffic from the previous days to advance into the country whilst for the time being France-bound freight remained static. This made life easy for me as I walked along side the parked trucks for most of the day. But when normality resumed it was like hell on Earth for me and nightfall unleashed a new terror in that there were no hard shoulders or walking access. In the end I was forced to camp out in the snow-laden countryside in sub-minus conditions it was freezing - I had absolutely no choice. I couldn´t sleep and the tent was just a frozen block - I couldn´t even pack it. My water had frozen up so I couldn´t get a drink and I had to march about 20km to reach Girona and obtain food. This was better - a lovely authentic Spanish town with good amenities and after a lunch break I located Barcelona Street and continued the next leg of the N11.

By nightfall my journey along the N11 had changed in that I was now faced with motorway instructions- typical- just when you get going some one sticks a bloody motorway right in the middle of the route! This caused major problems and for the next 4 hours I followed railway lines and woodland paths until reaching a point where I could pick up a road which led to Sils where I stayed the night paying just 37 euros for full board and vino - it was great!

Bad start today walking the entire town before realising the road was literally outside the hostal I´d stayed in last night - that´s 2 hours wasted - no desire to express my emotions here!

Marching on amid the tide of endless traffic which dominates pretty much any road I choose to walk on these days. Trying to follow the camino to Barcelona - bloody hard I can tell you! By nightfall once more I face the perils of the main road and had to retreat behind the crash barriers where I managed to camp in a woodland.

If that had been a tough day all I can say now is: Barcelona was a nightmare! The traffic was incredibly intense and all the time life-threatening as there were points in the journey where I had nowhere to get out of the way. On one stretch I had only a foot wide space with a 20 foot wall beside me- I was helpless and at the mercy of the road. Once in the city it is hard to get out as there are not any signs for pedestrians - it is all motorway instruction - even the people you ask will give only motorway instruction. Finally some one shows me the airport road and I am able to make my way to Libbregat were at 10pm I get another one of those hostals without hot water, heating and food for 45EU. And as usual there is never any one around in the morning to listen to complaints!

Passing St Boi I was now away from Barcelona and enjoying some pleasing clifftop and seascape vistas as the road winds round some of the quieter resorts. Leaving Sitges I found a campsite and as it was approaching dusk settled there for the night.     

It was warmer now and that evening I enjoyed Menu de la dei with vino tinto. Now I was bound for Tarrogona along the lively N340 which although a coast route for part of the time has also been adopted by truckers as their passage. The tougher moments forced me back to the shore where I would walk sections of promenade and occasionally cycle routes which in turn lead to smaller coast roads. Somehow I muddled my way through often near to the railway eventually rejoining the N340 near to a supermarket and campsite. The guy who owned the campsite used to work in Cambridge - it was out of season but he let me stay for just 5 euros.

Continuing on the dreaded N340 which had become my nemesis, I passed through Tarragona and then was able to enjoy a beautiful scenic journey via Port Adventua and Salou. From Salou I Followed the cycle route beyond Cambrills to a campsite where the lady let me stay for free. We had rejoined the main highway and there was a restaurant opposite so I paid 8euro for meal de la dei before retiring to a good sleep.

It was a lovely day as I left the campsite, but sadly my boots had conked out and I was forced to stop and give them a roadside burial next to the cycle route. 

Having covered a few scenic locations I now had to endure Spain´s industrial might later today. Starting tamely I walked passed L´¨Hospitalet de l Infant clearing a further 20 km before taking a cafe break.Speaking with a couple of ex-pats, they explained how I could find the coast road which was a better route than the main one. This I was able to do at the next beach resort, and although most of what they said was right, it came to a dead end in the middle of nowhere. Fenced in by the railway and a cliff fall of over 50 ft left no choice other than to head for the beach. Managing to scramble down to the shore I crossed to the next point where at least there was a clifftop path to follow. Later I passed another couple who indicated the route would see me through to L´Ampolla. It turned out to be okay despite only having walking shoes left and they were my actual foot size where I really needed a size larger to accommodate the insoles and heavy duty walking socks.

Well I was back on the old N340 now dominated by a scene of commerce and industry- a most unwelcome sight as towns merge into each other with no distinguishing identity or charm. With Little left in the day to inspire me I made a bivvy camp near a coppice just beyond L´Alrea.

The morning was another cock up in waiting and so I walking around the town of Amposta only to walk out the way I came in. Then I got the wrong road and so 3 hours later I finally move 1 km forward - to celebrate I stopped for cafe and toast with jam!

It was always going to be a tough day and I was tired so it boiled down to a steady hack rather than a force march. I had been covering some good distances of over 5okm a day - this was a less productive effort and I needed an earlier finish so I camped in some rough ground outside Bencarlo where Bank Holiday celebrations and fire works kept the night alive way beyond its normal realms.

Setting off early I had a spring in my step and settled into a good pace with the last outposts of the journey being Castello and Sagunt before Valencia.Torreblanca was my first stop having covered 26km already. I also stopped at a roadside cafe for some tortilla and from there on was some rain fall which cooled things down a bit. Excluding the road of course which was a total barrage and I was so pleased to get into Benicassim and find a campsite. Everything here was expensive and I had to use my card to get a meal as it was bank holiday and there were no cash machines handy.

Setting off again I was soon beyond Castello and enjoying the coast road for as long as I could walking down to Monocofa where I camped with the British Caravan Association -  I think I ran into this lot last year near Almunica. Tomorrow would be an early start and I hoped to conclude the journey at Velencia allowing sufficient time to get a train back to Santander for my ferry trip back to Plymouth and UK.

I was all packed and ready by 7am and despite some rain I enjoyed a fruitful journey along a somewhat benign N340. There was another section of Motorway thrown in after Sagunt, which I suppose was inevitable given the track record here but other than that I arrived unscathed in pouring rain around 6pm.

POSTSCRIPT

Having walked a journey of around 1000 miles on this present pilgrimage, (taking 25 days -over 300 hours of walking) I have now covered southern Europe -France Catalonia,Portugal and Spain-North and South (5000 miles in all).It has to be said that it was for many reasons one of the hardest in modern times I have endured. To me the use of national roads questions all sanity and the mood of modern society which emphasises on speed and necessity to get there at all costs. I find the concentration of having to walk these highways at times unbearable and unfortunately there are not enough cycle routes. The weather made its own statement too deciding it was far too early to start thinking about spring- this time last all I needed was a bivvy bag and a pair of shorts! It is also very expensive here now and it is essential to camp where possible which means carrying extra equipment and walking long days to cover the mileage. Funding this myself means I have limited funds and sometimes sub-standard footwear leading to blistered and cracked feet 

Walking 60km with full pack on about 2 hours sleep is never easy and a well-earned rest is all I crave, yet my thoughts will always be with those unable to achieve such goals because they are too ill to do so. The little discomfort I may have put myself through bares no significance or indeed any analogy to the constant discomfort of those precious lives that may never have a chance to enjoy this type of challenge. Life is their challenge- the day-to-day endurance of ill health visited upon them without warning or prejudce. Perhaps they would like a rest from their challenge too, so that they can do normal every day things that other children are striving towards. Its impossible to imagine how people so young and limited in life perceve life, we can only work together wth their interests at heart and make their challenge less formidable and life more enjoyable. I hope that every one who read this story will help our Precious Lives Appeal and put something back into the lives of those who may not have the chances that the rest of us have already had. All I can say to you is ´´Give a little something - do a little bit- find a little time and make a big difference to a young persons life.´´

LIFE SHOULD NOT BE WASTED - LIVE IT POSITIVELY AND HELP SUPPORT HUMANITY 

NEWS REPORT 2010-02-03

WORLDWIDE APPEAL AND DIARY OF RECENT WALK IN SOUTH AFRICA.

THE MBEKWENI TOWNSHIP

CRICKET SCHOOL

Twelve years ago Merwe Genis had a vision for young children to be given a better opportunity to play cricket in Paarl. The cricket school has become a successful means for children to not only learn about the game, but also more importantly gain valuable experience in developing their skills to tackle life.

I have known Merwe for over 10 years in which time he has made a valuable contribution to our cricket club at Oundle as well as coaching at the public school. Since travelling, playing cricket and walking coast-to-coast of South Africa I have learnt much about the way of life here and feel that now is the time to put something back into a country that has been good to me.

As a founding member of the Barmy Army I have spent many times on charity walks representing our organisation in a positive way that helps people who are less privileged. Recently the Barmy Army raised £1000 for a township cricket club in Rhondabosch and whilst attending the test match at Cape Town I made my mind up to take this a stage further and offer Merwe’s Cricket School a help in hand by walking around the Wine Lands to raise awareness and launch a world-wide appeal to help the Mbekweni Township.

Our costs include coaching fees of over R1000 per week;

we require funding for all cricket equipment;

food, drinks and petrol for transport.

We appeal for sponsorship from companies; donation of equipment (recycled if in good condition).

Donations of food and even spare to time to help with coaching.

We welcome any support on a worldwide scale.

Anybody wishing to help this worthy cause please contact:

Merwe Genis on: 082 575 7107.

Email: probol@hotmail.com

Donations can be sent to the Manyano Methodist Centre: 021 872 2537.

Email: manyano@eject.co.za

Address: Manyano Methodist Centre,

Paarl, 7620

Western Cape South Africa.

Look out for updates from this site: www.robin-moore.co.uk

To research further read:

PAARL POST: January/February editions.

THE FRANSCHHOEK VALLEY: To be published in March.

THANK YOU FOR READING THIS LEAFLET

WALKING THE WINELANDS FOR MBEKWENI

DAY 1 PAARL TO WELLINGTON

In hot, draining conditions, I set off from the Manyano Methodist Centre which was my home base throughout this tour of South Africa. Paarl is an important centre within a region renown for its wine production and as I neared the end of town the landscape was dominated by vineyards. Turning right along the Wellington Road, I passed a wine cellar situated opposite a primary school where children stood in the roadside awaiting their ride home.

To the east lies Mbekweni: my final destination in roughly a week’s time and 2 miles on I saw the snake park which I last visited in 2005. Stopping there briefly I indulged in fluid and changed my sodden shirt – a product of sheer sweat caused by draining heat; unlike of the mandatory rainy days in England which affect a similar result. I did however wish I was walking in English temperatures instead of tortuous heat on a dry dusty road plagued with insects.

Continuing my journey I passed a dam where the only fisherman in sight was a heron who was clumsy enough to drop his catch on take off. Perhaps I startled him, as he made no effort to return to amend his error though I doubt he would go hungry for long as the lake, rich in vegetation, looked to be one of nature’s finest restaurants. A little further on the guys from Manyano sped past in a car waving and singing Barmy Army songs to cheer me on.

At the end of a road was a café where I turned right and walked to a large bridge where teatime traffic was building up making the walk a little more unpleasant. Wellington was now in sight though I felt tired and weak with little desire to power-march into town: instead I ambled through the busy thoroughfare greeting locals as I passed by. Generally people were friendly, acknowledging my effort, and overall I felt enriched by my journey. Most stimulating was what it offered in terms of culture, historical charm and architectural heritage. The transition of dusty scrubland to endless miles of orchards and vineyards broken by affluent colonial buildings creates a unique diversity, which is in itself an attraction to those who visit this prolific region.

Once inside the town I stopped at the Tourist Office to assess my geography and with a little help from the staff was able to locate the street where my host for the night, Nicole lived. She phoned to say she would pick her girls up from school, which gave me a bit more time to explore the town and later I enjoyed a rooibos tea and a chat with the security guard, who by chance, lived at Mbekweni in Paarl.

Nicole is a friend who I met at De Luga's Restaurant in Paarl which she owns and manages. I often go there for breakfast and enjoy chatting to the friendly staff about cricket and all my walking adventures.

By early evening I had located Nicole’s house along Commissioner Street and soon we were enjoying a bottle of wine by the pool. Nicole had to return to work that night so I settled down after sunset and enjoyed a good night’s rest, knowing tomorrow would bring a testing journey over The Bainskloof Pass.

DAY 2 WELLINGTON TO THE BUSH INN

Leaving Nicole’s house around 7am, I wandered through Main Street eventually coming to the church where I found the turn off to Ceres and Worcester. Wellington is an architectural jewel celebrated in its rich Cape Dutch homesteads and Victorian structures, situated in a picturesque valley at the foot of Groenberg Mountain. I was now set to cross the famous Bainskloof Pass, built by Andrew Geddes in 1853 later becoming known as the frontier to the north. As the road weaved in and out of the mountains it provided an awe-inspiring overview of the region’s finely manicured vineyards as well as exposing its visitors to its own geological masterpiece enjoyed from picnic areas, campsites and natural rock pools fuelled by cool running waterfalls and cascades.

By 8am it was already hot and stopping to chat to the workers at a cellar: one guy called Adam Timotheus remembered our 2003 cricket tour here when we visited for wine tasting and lunch. He was still working here and was also training to be a vicar. After exchanging details for future correspondence, he fetched some ice water and warned of baboons wandering the high ground: so shortly after leaving I found a stick to walk with lest there be any confrontation with these fiercesome beasts.

As the heat glared across the pass, exceeding 40c in some places, I made frequent stops at the picnic viewing points. Here I could relax in the shade and as the road climbed high into the mountain I was treated to panoramic views of Wellington with its great white church standing out as a prestigious landmark. As the path wound round to the next point displaying a valley with small broken communities, I ran into a German group who praised my efforts and bought a couple of books from me. They were touring the wine lands as part of their vacation chosen through familiarity and their love of the place.

By noon I was starting my descent though the temperature remained unforgiving trapped in between the rocks like the heat of an oven. The air was calm without a breeze and the terrain only welcome to lizards and snakes that were able to shelter in the cracks of the mountains. I saw a few tadpoles and frogs immersed in some water that had collected in a drain. Further on were a couple of guys mending a road bridge: here and for the rest of the way is a drop of several hundred feet into the gorge. They wished me well as I soldiered on mindful of traffic that at times drove a little fast given the immediate hazards that frequent the pass; going over the top offers little chance of survival which remains a stark reality for all of us.

It was interesting to watch the different creatures emerge from the rocks though I was never once tempted to overturn a rock. One never knows who may reside in these parts: snakes in particular do not like intruders and all said and done this is their home we are walking through! I can understand and sympathise with the snake, but then again I have no desire to go and shake his hand either!

Unbelievably I came across a restaurant though sadly it was closed as the cook was undergoing a complicated operation on her neck. The owner was kind all the same and gave me some fruit and purchased a copy of my Barmy Army charity walk book.

After some nourishment I paused for a while at some plaques and epitaphs in honour of Andrew Geddes who built the pass. From here the pass becomes even narrower and I was relieved to stop again at a campsite called The Tweede Tol Holiday Resort where the Nature Conservation Warden, Bruce Leuw let me have use of the facilities including a visit to the rock pools where many were bathing in the fresh clear waters. There were 3 waterfalls there enjoyed vigorously by a party of children here on a camping holiday. There were other families too enjoying a picnic and after a refreshing soak I returned to talk to Bruce and the guys. One chap lived in Paarl and joked with me that it had taken 8 years for him to return here to visit – it had only taken me a day! I guess we all postpone things from time to time and any way at least he got there eventually and was enjoying the fruits of his effort. What a lovely place for the guys to enjoy a reunion after many years away. During the conversation I learnt that I was only 10km away from the next stop, which happened to be the Calabash Bush Inn. There was a chance I could obtain accommodation here and given the draining hot weather I would gladly settle for that. The pub was on the Worcester Ceres junction, which was better than having to walk into Ceres itself leaving only about 35km for tomorrow’s hike to Worcester.

Bading farewell I returned to the task, which was almost instantaneous trauma, and I struggled to contend with the ordeal. Passing by at great speed were 6 ambulances destined for the top end of the pass where I could only assume there had been an awful accident remembering that the speed limit should not exceed 60km.

Approaching the Worcester/Ceres junction I came across the inn and in total exhaustion felt relieved to find somewhere to shelter. The proprietor Suzanne let me stay in the bunkhouse free of charge and after a shower I ordered steak and salad for my evening meal. Although still warm, I enjoyed a pleasant evening on the balcony waiting for sunset before retiring to a somewhat restless night.

DAY 3 THE CALABASH BUSH INN TO WORCESTER

With the heat so intense I slept outside amid the call of the wild: I had a spider for company, the occasional mosquito and there was a small bird, which was now resident in the billet. I could also hear the cry of a larger beast, which the warden told me was a cheetah that lives at the top of the mountains. As dawn broke the call of nature echoed across the landscape giving me newfound energy for the day ahead. I felt grateful for this moment and the fact I’d overcome a difficult first obstacle along this great journey. Enjoying the cool air I marched to the road junction passing many youngsters on their way to school. Following a bush trail near to the road I could now see the sun poking through the orchards where already the land workers were harvesting their crop. At present it was peaches and a farmer pulled up on his motorbike and offered me some for breakfast. We chatted for a while about the cricket series, which had proved to be one of the greatest contests between the two sides and also on an international scale. The guy also went on to explain the adventure side to the terrain, which also offered a mountain hike to Ceres encountering deep gorges where only a helicopter could gain access. A journey on this scale would require an undertaking of several days and he hoped to take his son one day with a view to instilling valuable character-building experience that would prove beneficial in years to come.

My own journey, testing as it was, also showed good insight into the regions resources: as well as orchards there were vineyards harvested for wine sold in the Breede Valley. A short distance on and I found another Cellar near the roadside and also a shop opposite where I bought some pilchards. Chatting to the owner who was impressed with the idea behind my walk, said that God had given me a purpose in life, which would also create a positive knock on effect in a country still blighted by poverty. It is nice to give food away or make financial contributions but at the end of the day it is better to teach those less fortunate how to fish rather than do the fishing for them. If we fail to achieve this then all we can expect is a lot of fishermen and no fish! In other words it would be great to build a cricket school for the township people of Mbekweni for example, but it is the issues of maintenance that will remain the greater challenge if it is to succeed in the long term. For anything to gain its true value in life requires it to be respected for life.

Pondering over the philosophies of African life I sat by the Cellar for a while, and before heading off I dropped in a leaflet about my campaign, explaining that I was appealing on behalf of the township for help with our cricket school. The next stage of the journey passes beyond the Rawsonville junction- roughly 10km from Worcester, the most centrally situated town in the Breede Valley. The heat induced me to make a couple more stops: one at a small farm community whose inhabitants came to greet me and listen to the details of my campaign. I saw another guy on the road laden with a backpack: he was trying to hitch a ride with little success. I guess it can’t be easy trying to get a lift in an often-tumultuous part of Africa. I had not seen too many problems apart traffic incidents, though I did walk into an armed robbery in Cape Town a couple of weeks ago!

Entering Worcester, engulfed by spectacular mountains captures the very essence of a great wine centre described by many as a gem of the Breede Valley. My accommodation was a good walk from the town near to the Blind Association. Worcester is famous for its institutes and schools for deaf and blind people and appropriately launched the first Braille Wine Bottle here. The bottle epitomises the integrity and spirit of the town known for its exclusive wines and also houses the largest brandy-distilling cellar in the world.

Ticking off the last outposts of the area I managed to find my hosts at Jasmin House, which turned out to be a lovely self-catering hostel where I was, charged just R150 for the night. The guys also took me back in town to purchase food items and a couple of beers. On returning the students were enjoying an evening in the college grounds nearby but despite the hub I slept soundly until first light the next day.

DAY 4 WORCESTER TO PAARL

Leaving around 7am I walked beyond the town crossing the railway bridge and shortly after joining the N1. Tony had planned to link up with me around 9am and drop off John, one of the Cape Cricket Academy coaches who had arranged to walk to Paarl with me that day.

Having powered into the day I managed to cover 16km by the time they arrived. Once equipped and supplied with water we set off with little more that 43km to reach Paarl, providing we can access the side tunnel, which runs through the mountain for 8km of the journey.

All around were awe-inspiring mountains, streams running close by and many bridges to cross. The glare of the heat rising from the road indicated the intensity of walking out here. The roads were so hot our boots melting and it is inconceivable that blisters will form as a result of continual power marching of up to 50km a day. The captivating scenery helped give some solace throughout the day though our concentration remained at a peak given impetus of weekend traffic. Crossing another bridge we came across a truck driver whose load was tilting perilously to the left and we wondered how much further he dared to travel. He was desperately trying to pull the support ropes tighter as the only means of securing his load. We hoped he would pull in at the next weighbridge 2 km back towards Worcester as the problem could only realistically be solved with a forklift or crane. Before pressing on we wished him well giving thoughts of his and other peoples’ safety. I’m afraid health and safety regulations have not quite filtered through from the West as yet and I am less inspired by the general work practises here: often found wanting and at times frightfully inadequate.

20km from Paarl we stopped at a Wine Cellar for a rest in the shade and later we asked the guy to top up our water containers. Before leaving we distributed more leaflets and made our way to the tunnel with some trepidation. On reaching the point we met a hiking party who had been exploring the streams and waterfalls that run close by. They were finished for the day and heading back to Worcester in transport provided for the outing.

We could only use the emergency tunnel next to the N1 as the main one was full of Carbon Monoxide, which could only yield a painful journey. The light inside was dim and we were mindful of potholes, and after only 3km into the tunnel, the security forces – sirens and all apprehended us! I just waved and carried on walking but when the guy demanded an explanation I showed him a leaflet and explained that this was the only logical way to continue on the N1. He agreed and after a quick phone call to his boss he let us continue. The light became better and the next hour passed quickly with the cooler conditions to lighten our burden. Coming out of the tunnel was a great relief the instant heat that greeted us was the equivalent of walking into a sauna. Then we had the ordeal of walking over the motorway bridge with its pillars rising hundreds of feet above the ground. It was an eerie adrenalin pumped session as we met heavy goods traffic head on with only a small barrier to prevent the sheer drop of several hundred feet. Some of the drivers were inconsiderate and drove straight at us with bellowing horns trying to force us over the bridge. This intimidation would again have been considered illegal and irresponsible elsewhere as there times when I thought my next step would be 300 metres or more – not much fun without a bungee rope! I also revisited the breakdown scene witnessing other truckloads on the road with the similar wilting cargo. Boy we were glad to pass beyond that bridge and restore some sanity into the journey where others it seems, flourish in an insane world set to test all-comers on a daily basis. Soon we were able to join a Paarl junction: it was the wrong one and so we walked a few kms further than otherwise intended. Nonetheless we finished before 6pm and after a beer in La Romantica bar, we headed back to Manyano where Tony and Tineke treated us to a lovely supper.

There was a church group staying at Manyano so I stayed at Tony’s place, and despite the musical entertainment, which is integral to the group, I slept blissfully feeling satisfied and grateful for a journey of great adventure.

DAY 5 PAARL TO FRANSCHHOEK

Paarl is the third oldest town in South Africa and indeed one of the longest I have walked through during my entire lifetime. It has a blend of architecture and is steeped in history: most recently in the wake of Apartheid Nelson Mandela spent the latter part of his prison life at Drakenstein Prison. I guess his long walk to freedom was mightier than any other journey made here as the ending portrays the ultimate transition of prisoner to president. What a wonderful story that has shaped the social landscape of this country and which has become a great example to the wider world. Paarl also houses the oldest Dutch Reformed Church in the country, which is still in use. Restaurants and bistros are popular here and we always recommend a trip to De Lugas, La Romantica or Bosanovas: these have been my favourite places since my visit here in 2003. There is a Tourist Office also and plenty of shops, craft centres and places to visit including the museum. On leaving town I could see the prominent white stone feature that sits at the top of Paarl Mountain which happens to be the only language monument in existence, erected in 1975 to represent the Afrikaans language deemed the youngest in the world.

I was so engrossed with the scenery that I completely missed the turnoff to Franschhoek and had to scale the next bridge along the N1, which served both Goat Farm at Fairview and the byway to Simonsvai and fortunately the Franschhoek turn. The road police were monitoring a walking event and confirmed that I could make my way from here along the quieter lane.

It was heart-warming passing all the locals making their way to church: some of the services were held outside and to see those smiling faces and hear those lovely hymns gave me strength for the day ahead. People were full of cheer and so grateful to God for another wonderful week of life and for the next 2 hours I passed over a hundred people.

At the Stellenbosch turn I still had a further 18km to walk though I was grateful for a pavement most of the way. Opposite was the old Cape Railway line which appeared redundant and used only by locals in lieu of the road. There was a picnic park along the way and I stopped for water at the next Cellar where the guard let me rest awhile. My vest was dry by the time I set off again and soon the vineyards flanked the road as fine colonial buildings once again dominate the roadside. Franschhoek is a quiet little corner of Europe enjoying its Frenchness and its status as ‘The Gourmet Capital of South Africa’. The place has over 20 restaurants including the lovely railway station, which has been converted to meet the needs of this culinary revolution. After a snack from ‘Pick and Pay’ I ventured up to my hosts at the top of town were glad to see me advised me were I could obtain a good meal in town.

Whilst perusing the French Connection, admiring European facades and gift shops I managed to find an English pub called the Elephant and Barrel where I enjoyed a plate of liver and onions with mash, and a couple of beers in a background of soft music. So relaxing and soothing the music that on returning home I slept without waking until sunrise the next day.

DAY 6 FRANSCHHOEK TO SIMONBURG CHRISTIAN CENTRE.

Refreshed and rejuvenated I set about a nourishing breakfast of beans on toast and conducted an interview with the Franschhoek Valley Monthly newspaper. On completion Tony arrived to spend a day on the road, which should yield a further 50km.

Leaving the town behind we enjoyed a cooler day with breeze to assist our effort. Passing the wine cellars reminded me that the tradition of wine making is still one of the reasons why visitors choose this location. As well as its picture postcard scenery and French cuisine much of its prestige is attained from award-winning wines of different styles housed in over 40 cellars and 12 winery restaurants.

For the first 18km we literally retraced my footsteps of the previous day though most of which was very pleasant. We passed the picnic park and stopped at a few quiet little corners of the land that made our journey so much more fulfilling.

Turning right on to the Stellenbosch Road we walked in awe of the beautiful mountain range named ‘The Devil’s Staircase’ owing to the difficult and unforgiving terrain. Roadworks enabled us to progress more efficiently with safer passage and although Tony was suffering with blistered feet we managed to find a stick to make his walk more comfortable. We stopped at a lovely little restaurant where the receptionist gave us a meal and thanked us for trying to help the township. By the time we finished our clothes were dry and after thanking the lady we continued with a spring in our step.

Reaching Stellenbosch by teatime meant an arduous session against the teatime traffic and on finding the Paarl junction we enjoyed some shade under a tree and rested for a while. Stellenbosch is the heart of the wine industry and home to South Africa’s oldest university dating back to 1866. It reminds a little bit of Cambridge and we were fortunate enough to play cricket here with Oundle Badgers back in 2003. As well as the beauty and atmosphere of the town the culture is steeped in South African tradition with its history reflected in its neo-Dutch, Georgian and Victorian architecture. Its wine route is probably the most famous in the country and often visited by The Barmy Army whenever we are on tour here.

At 6pm we decided to press on though Tony was feeling the pain and decided to slow up. The traffic was still belting through but I felt we had less than 10km left in the day. The sun dropped low in the sky as I passed the next village I knew we were only a short distance now. By chance I stopped at the next junction to wait for Tony to emerge and whilst admiring the impressive cannon gun at an access to a winery I noticed a sign reading ‘Simonburg Christian Centre’. What a great result as I had expected to walk a further 3km at least. It was almost dusk when Tony arrived and together we walked along the lane into the Christian Centre. On reaching our destination we were greeted by Estelle who took us up to the house where we enjoyed a welcome cup of tea. Later Timeke picked Tony up and I finished the day chatting to Estelle and her family whilst enjoying a hearty supper. I was so grateful that they had offered to help me and slept well in the knowledge that I had made many new friends on this recent adventure.

DAY 7 SIMONBURG TO MBEKWENI

After breakfast and a prayer for the road Estelle and Esak escorted me to the cannon gun where we posed for photos to mark the occasion. I enjoyed an undulating journey across picturesque landscape of mountains and vineyards stopping at all the small businesses to spread the word of our campaign. Soon the pillars of commerce come into view and I enjoyed the chance of revisiting Simonsvei Conference Centre where the receptionist gave me some juice. I had spent many happy times here fishing with a friend Naideen and her children, Mathew and Jayne.

Walking along the dusty road I passed the junction to Fairview Goat Farm where on can enjoy cheese and wine tasting at the coast of a few rand. Soon I was entering Paarl, passing under the bridge to pace out the last few kms of the town. Delivering the remainder of the leaflets and after stopping to obtain some food from Chequers I returned to Manyano for a welcome rest and afternoon swim. After a visit from Merwe we linked up with some children from the township and under police escort we walked to Mbekweni. By the time we arrived there were a further 250 youngsters and media officials to greet us and on entering the township we celebrated with cricket and cold drinks as Patrick the headmaster of the school gave a presentation about the walk and our dream of a cricket school in Mbekweni.

POSTSCRIPT

Our work here has only just began and a long journey still lies ahead for the Mbekweni Township as we appeal to the public worldwide to help us with our quest. It is not just the task of equipping the township youngsters to enable them to reach the next level, but the maintenance of such a project which requires commitment for its long term future.

We strongly believe that the spirit created within the cricket school will teach these youngsters self-discipline and help them forge good friendships and bonding throughout the township. The cohesion that the cricket field will bring to the township will help these youngsters develop to meet the needs and demands of a changing world. It is my aim to return to South Africa to walk again for the cause and coach in this little township where I can see it develop. We need to give more to those who need help most and to teach them the respect required to maintain a life long legacy. If cricket is to survive in South Africa it needs to draw strength from guys like Ntini who have shown dedication and hard work to be the tools of success. We need first to provide a system to help them learn their craft; we have to be able maintain it and improve the facilities when appropriate. Then, perhaps one day we can inspire these youngsters to be future legends of their kingdom and the greater cricket world.

FOND MEMORIES OF SOUTH AFRICA

Robin’s travels and diaries of South Africa have now been published and will be available in Paarl next year. They are on sale at Oundle Bookshop and will also be available as an electronic feature from his website (EBOOKS).

www.robin-moore.co.uk

Click on Newsletter or read Main Page for latest updates about Robin’s Charity Work.

NEWSLETTER - 2010

ROBIN MOORE'S BARMY ARMY WALK OF THE SOUTH AFRICAN WINELANDS

In aid of local township Mbekweni

The Barmy Army has become more than a fun-loving bunch of cricket fans from various backgrounds: as well as being loyal, passionate supporters of England, we are also ambassadors of our country who pride ourselves on charity work in particular for those less fortunate in life. The day after arriving in Cape Town I attended a cricket match at Rondebosch where we raised R12000 for the township.

As a founding member of The Barmy Army I look back at where I was in life at that time - ready to set off on a different type of adventure: one of walking Great Britain for Cancer Research and later the world for similar worthy causes.

Since that time I have walked over 33,000km, raised over a million Rand, written many books about my adventures and have coached/supported cricket wherever possible.

Having finished the tour, I opted to stay behind and help cricket coach Merwe Genis realise his goal of equipping Mbekweni Township with adequate gear to enjoy and improve in this wonderful God-given sport. We strongly believe that the spirit created within the cricket school will help forge friendships and good bonding within the township. The cricket field will help the children realize the need for self-discipline required to learn and develop. Cricket will teach them about the true values of respect and with backing of their teachers, time will be set aside during school hours for cricket coaching.

COST

The cost of running these activities on a weekly basis is as follows:

10 coaches: R2000

Petrol: R500

Food&drinks: R700

Future Cost, equipping, transport to matches/Boland Park, clothing, other matches. We could be looking at R32 per child per month.

My time comes free - I thrive off these challenges and the importance of putting something back into life. If we all gave up 2 hours a week to help some one or contribute to a worthy cause then the world would be a better place!

On Wednesday 20th January I will be setting off to walk the Winelands to raise awareness and hopefully funds for the Mbekweni Cricket School and will be appealling for support from local businesses. I will be looking for volunteers to accompany me on each leg of the journey to help distribute leaflets in all major towns. Cheques and donations can be sent to the Manyano Methodist Centre (Tony&Tineke - 021 827 2537): gifts of food in lieu of money will be welcome. Recycled or new equipment can also be sent and we welcome any free coaching time.

For information regarding this appeal please contact: Merwe Genis on: 082 575 7107.

ITINERARY

20/01-WELLINGTON

21/01-CERES

22/01-WORCESTER

23/01-PAARL

24/01-FRANSCHHOEK

25/01-STELLENBOSCH

26/01-MBEKWENI  

Robin will be selling his Barmy Army Books (with free program of recent SA tour en route. His books are also available at Paarl Cricket Shop.

THANK YOU FOR READING THIS NEWSLETTER.

AUTUMN NEWSLETTER 2009

NEW BOOK RELEASE

Robin's latest book 'ROBIN  MOORE'S BARMY ARMY WALK' is now available at Oundle School Bookshop, Colemans  and Oundle Travel at £6.99. There was a booksigning at Robin's Cancer Research presentation which took place at The Angel Inn Oundle after midday on 20th November. The book will also be available online published at this website on EBOOKS. Also check future Barmy Army publications and charity section of their website www.barmyarmy.com

for further information how to obtain a copy of this book. Other books on release this year include:

 ROBIN MOORE'S GREAT BRITAIN WALK

 THE PORTUGUESE CAMINO

 WALKING THE GARDEN ROUTE

 These publications describe Robin's day-to-day adventures on the road and show valuable insight into well-known tourist destinations and walking routes.

‘ANOTHER BRICK IN THE WALL’

VETERAN WALKER STEPS OUT FOR LITTLE HARBOUR

Robin Moore who has walked 21,000 miles for cancer charities completed his latest challenge of walking the Southwest coast path from Minehead to Land’s End for the new children’s hospice in Cornwall.

Robin delivered over 1,000 donation envelopes to businesses throughout the region hoping that people will be generous and support him in his campaign to help build ‘Little Harbour’. The event has been posted on the Children’s Hospice website so that donations can also be made online (worldwide) to this worthy cause.

Every pound is literally another brick in the wall and 25% tax relief is awarded for those who fill in the details on the envelope and send on to the hospice with the attached Robin Moore label.

In addition to Robin’s fundraising effort the local community had pledged to support him, and The Carharrack Stars Inn held a fundraising/auction evening on Saturday 24^th October. Some of the prizes included Barmy Army mechandise, a collection of 'Frazer Bears' and Robin's adventure books. Anybody wishing to subscribe to Barmy Army membership can do so through Robin who is a founding member of the organisation.  A cheque for £1600 was later presented at The Carharrack Stars to CWSW representative, Mrs Pat Congdon: this included sponsor donations from other local inns; The Coppice, Lanner; The Fox and Hounds, Comford; The Badger Inn, Lelant; The Sheath of Wheat, St Ives. Funds are still rolling in but in view of the post strike we had little choice other than to present the cheque from our local community. The Robin  Moore campaign will remain open until his next walk which means donations can be made on his online page at CHSW or by sending a donation to the Charity Headquarters in Truro.

CORNWALL HOSPICE CARE

Robin also completed a section of the Cornish Pilgrimage for Cornwall Hospice Care delivering envelopes between the hospices of Mount Edgcumbe in St Austell and St Julia’s in Hayle. To support the hospices please enter your details on the slip to allow the charity to gain an extra 28% tax relief. You can send a donation or cheque made payable to Cornwall Hospice Care to:

Robin Moore's Cornish Pilgrimage,

Mount Edgcumbe Hospice,

Porthpean Road,

St Austell,

Cornwall

PL26 6AB.

Alternatively phone regional executive, Clare Bray on: 01726 66868 for further details and how to support hospice care in Cornwall.

CANCER RESEARCH UK

Cancer Research UK always benefits from Robin's efforts too, and on Friday 20th November he and the regulars at The Angel Inn Oundle handed over a cheque for £700 to Sally Wilson, local representative of the Charity: this brings the total amount for Cancer charities to £2,300 from this summer's walk of the South West Coast. Though there has been a decline in support for this event, lack of publicity and disasterous weather during last years Barmy Army walk there was still a decent amount for a presentation. In any case there will be much to reflect on in this eventful year: 'I can celebrate 21,000 miles on the road, look back at former days described in my books (4 new releases this year) and most importantly thank the local public for the support they have given me over the years: The contributions from Oundle people alone in supporting my walks for Cancer Research UK have now exceeded the £10,000 mark. Well done to all concerned and Thank you!

 Those interested in supporting him in future events can do so by using the sponsor forms held at The Angel Inn, The George, The Chequered Skipper and Montagu Arms: or contact Chloe Higgins (regional representative) on: 07789 776195.  All donations are welcome and those of you living outside the region are also invited to send a cheque to:

 Robin Moore 2009 Campaign,

Cancer Research UK,

Unit 7400,

The Quorum,

Alec Issigonis Way,

Oxford Park North,

Oxford,

OX4 2JZ.

All cheques are made payable to Cancer Research UK.

At this point, it is time to say a special thanks Ann Newman who designs cards to help support Robin's Charity Campaigns in Cornwall. These are sold for £1 each at The Fox and Hounds in Comford near Lanner, and this year the cards have made £230 towards the Cancer Research UK fundraising campaign. Using her artistic talent is a wonderful way to help the charity and is a good illustration of how we can all use our hobbies/passtimes for the good of humanity. 

Robin has supported Cancer Charities since 1992 when he walked between Cornwall and Northamptonshire to commemorate lost friends from the two regions. He has since walked the British Isles, Southern Europe, New Zealand and South Africa. He hopes to return to Africa this winter to complete another leg of his Commonwealth Challenge. The public can buy the latest books about Robin’s exploits from the Oundle Bookshop in Northamptonshire or Redruth Health Store in Cornwall: these books are expensive to print and will retail at £5 each: SO please do not steal from our charity – Robin tries to be self-sufficient and fund all his activities: three of his latest titles were stolen by a customer recently. 

For online services/publications and more about Robin visit his website at:

www.robin-moore.co.uk

A DIARY OF THE RECENT WALK

Tuesday 1/9/09

Arriving at Minehead in style on a vintage steam hauled train I was now ready for the greater journey. Setting off from the harbour the steep climb through the forest to Bossington was just the tonic I needed to blow out the cobwebs of the Bank Holiday weekend. Settling at the campsite at Porlock at least meant I had secured an early finish after making only a small dent in what would most certainly be a testing journey on one of Britain’s most formidable long distant footpaths.

Wednesday 2/9/09

Having enjoyed the morning stroll to Porlock Wier I was soon encompassed by forest as I made my way to the delightful Culbone Church – possibly the smallest in England where services are held by candlelight. Imbued by the experience I pressed on through the dense forest which eventually opens up to a breathtaking clifftop scene where Exmoor falls 1,000 feet to the sea. I felt blown away by the experience, and later more literally so as high winds and heavy rain dampened my aspirations of a pleasant journey. By the time I reached Lynton I had abandoned all hope of camping and made for the nearest B&B.

Thursday 3/9/09

‘The windswept tops around The Valley of Rocks,

Gave a journey of dismay,

Now soaking wet from cap to socks,

To me its just another day.’

In summary it was ‘bloody awful’ and at times life-threatening and once I had to warn others not to go near the clifftop. Eventually descending through Great Hangman Valley the weather settled leaving little disruption other than wild ponies racing each other across the glades.

Once I had reached Combe Martin I felt most of the inclement weather for today had abated though the endurance factor remained present on the slippery footpath. There were occasions when I descended rather too quickly and not always on the soles of my feet!

Managing to arrive at Ilfracombe before dusk I settled once more at a lodge where I could attempt to dry out my kit.

Friday 4/9/09

Feeling revived after breakfast and the prospect of a brighter weather front I headed off to Lee Bay and the holiday town of Woolacombe. The sunshine had drawn many holidaymakers to the beach where in most cases the coast towns were a hive of activity throughout the day. The wind remained fierce and very cool on the evening session, which entailed a long drawn out yomp from Baggy Point to Taw Estuary path which led me to the town of Braunton. At least I enjoyed the imbibing atmosphere of the George Hotel where I spent the night in the company of two young females who were on a cycling holiday: they had planned to reach Ilfracombe on the Tarka Trail tomorrow.

Saturday 5/9/09

After an hour of ‘envelope delivery’ I plodded on with sore feet incurred from yesterday’s marathon which did not end until after 9pm. Today was different in that it lacked the strenuous clifftop endurance: instead I walked the flat Tarka Trail which gave more reminders of the railway era that was once a significant aspect of west country life. There were stations and even carriages converted to restaurants, and at Bideford I was overawed by the celebrations of Carnival day. Leaving the crowded streets behind as the voices of fun grew fainter, I finally coming to a standstill at Westward Ho! where I was able to stay at the new Youth Hostel. It was excellent!

Sunday 6/9/09

Locals from the previous evening waved me on, showing happiness that I had found a good place to rest the previous evening. There was a pleasant buzz throughout the day as people paraded the coastline enjoying a warmer climate compared to the previous week. The forest floor was little more than a mud track as the climbs grew steeper onward to Buck’s Mill, but easing later on the approach to Clovelly.

Having found a B&B for the night I visited The Red Lion where a party had been in progress since 10am. By the time I left the premises most of the women had stripped naked and were dancing on the tables: others jumped into the harbour: all were in good (or maybe not so good) voice – by my reckoning not one of them was a day under 60!

Monday 7/9/09

Leaving the party scene of Clovelly behind my journey now takes shape around Hartland where I had to tackle steeper ground. The section to Hartland Quay dragged on, and on completion at the inn I still had to walk inland to Stoke to obtain a campsite pitch at the local farm. A couple from a nearby B&B contacted the guy who was fantastic – very laid back and insisted I stayed there for nothing! Despite feeling tired I walked back to the inn at Hartland in order to get a meal and a couple of beers to complete a very rewarding day.

Tuesday 8/9/09

Starting in overcast weather I dealt with some serious climbs and high winds with little other to focus on than spectacular clifftop scenery. Rewarding as it was, on conclusion I had to make the most of minimal facilities at Morwenstow where I paid ten pounds to camp in a field with only the Bush Inn for comfort as rain hammered down for the remainder of the day.

Wednesday 9/9/09

Waking to a flooded tent with everything wet I packed my gear as best I could and made off for Bude with the sun breaking through to promise a better day. Mindful of cattle and the electric fence which I managed to grab hold of the previous day, I continued unscathed to Hawker’s Hut. From here I passed through Stanbury Point and Sandy Mouth where the journey became easier and the day generally warmer. Once at Bude I located Wyvern B&B where Eileen and Michael Luxton made me most welcome and helped with the campaign: Eileen herself is a local ambassador for the children’s

 Hospice and the places she recommended I visit were generous – The Green Inn in particular made a contribution to the cause.

Thursday 10/9/09 

Setting off on a bright summer’s day I was inspired by views of the oncoming surf around Widemouth Bay which owes much to its popularity with today being no exception as suited bodies on boards take on the mighty Atlantic. Beyond here the path climbs to Dizzard Point as the roller-coaster journey becomes more strenuous. Stopping briefly at Crackington Haven I enjoyed tea and a chat to some holiday makers who have noted my progress since spotting me in Devon. They had travelled by car taking in some of the Southwest’s prolific centres. The next stage in the journey involved many tough ascents, which make this a formidable section of the path, taking me 3 hours to reach Boscastle where I stayed at the Youth Hostel. I enjoyed a lovely meal and had a beer in each of the pubs whilst reading the local newspaper, which I’m pleased to say contained a nice article about my walk/campaign.

Friday 11/9/09

Leaving the village around 9am I trundled on to Tintagel where spellbound visitors had succumbed to the lure of Arthur’s Castle. Climbing beyond the masses I encountered some heavy work around Trebarwith Strand with steep climbs of around 200 man-made steps of differing heights – a bit severe to say the least. Feeling hot I stopped at Trebarwith Bay, enjoying a tea break amid blue sky and sunshine. Sun block was now an important accessory as I pressed on to Port Isaac where the cliffs were ever-steep with little else en route to break up the journey. Reaching the fishing port I distributed more envelopes and decided to kick on through the evening session as far as Polzeath. It was a long stretch and I was tired on reaching the holiday town around dusk. Not wishing to backtrack to another campsite I had to pay ‘Tourist Rates’ at the main site on the coast path, which cost £18 to pitch a tent. Beer was nearly £4 per bottle!

Saturday 12/9/09

Enjoying an easy walk to Rock I made it in time to get the ferry across to Padstow. It was very busy in town and I had an hour delivering my paperwork to Ricky’s Empire and other local premises before heading off to Trevose. What a long day! It seemed to drag on and I was lucky to reach Mawgan Porth by dusk where there was just one remaining pitch. After enjoying a meal at the Merry Millar, I then slept through sheer exhaustion.

Sunday13/9/09

The Site owners were very generous, letting me stay for free and with a spring in my step I headed off into Newquay where the welcome tranquillity of Sunday morning had slowed up the tourist impetus making the streets almost passable. I was invited in for tea at the Tourist Office and enjoyed a breakfast at Wetherspoons before continuing to Perranporth. Both Holly Well Bay and Perran Sands were teeming with life as the sun-baked beaches had become transformed into a massive playground. Gathering water for the last phase of today’s journey I set off for St Agnes where the path cuts its way through old industrial workings – occasionally hard to follow and close to the cliff edge at times. Crossing in to St Agnes on the low-tide route I then walked beyond the village to the campsite, which was nearly empty and the lady let me stay without charge. Back in town for a meal I ran into a couple of pals at The Peterville Arms where we spent a great evening and raised funds for the hospice.

Monday14/9/09

Now suffering the effects of a cold I made steady progress to Chapel Porth and Porthtowan where I had coffee at the Unicorn. The route to Portreath followed the military boundaries around Nancekuke Common where only the wind showed any signs of aversion. From Portreath Harbour I made a diversion inland to mother’s house using the Tramroad, where I also stopped for a pint at Sue’s pub (Fox and Hounds). I could now sleep in a bed for a night and obtain more gear for a further few days

Tuesday 15/9/09

Setting of at first light I made my way back along the Tramroad to Portreath where I picked up my route along the path to Godrevy. The wind howled fiercely around Hell’s Mouth- at times throwing me off my stride. Later I crossed the beach where I only just evaded the high tide. After an hour in Hayle I continued to St Ives where I pitched at Ayr Campsite (free). It was Festival week and I was able to make an impact with my campaign, which was met with enthusiasm by all I encountered.

Wednesday 16/9/09

After an interview with the local paper I set off for Zennor along the coast path which I can only describe as ‘appalling’ rather than its rating of severe. I managed to step into a bog where I spent 3 minutes trying to pull my leg out! And a hundred times out of a hundred managed to hit my injured big toe(in-growing toe nail) on whatever debris/rock that protruded from the path!  Nonetheless I arrived unscathed and camped again for free- this time at the Backpackers, and later visited the Tinner’s Arms which was a source of refuge for many walkers on this hot afternoon.

Thursday 17/9/09

Setting off early I was now entering the basement of Cornwall where its many mining landmarks were the focus of attention for all walkers today. Part of my journey took place on an inland route, diverted after the tragic flooding incident a few months early which led to a closure of a small section of path round Gurnards Head. Beyond here the path becomes an obstacle course in places, but I still enjoyed the splendour of Botallack and the remaining relics that lie to tell their sombre tale of a once prosperous era of mining. Reaching St Just I was greeted by Wendy, the vicar’s wife and loyal servant of the South West Hospices. She and her friends at The Star Inn have raised literally millions for the charity. The whole town seemed infused with the cause and every one friendly and cheerful. I enjoyed a lively night in town and slept at the hall near the church.

Friday 18/9/09

Another great traveller awaits Robin's arrival at Land's End.

Leaving early I ticked off the remaining miles of coastline whilst enjoying the view of Longship Lighthouse, soon to be joined by Whitesand Bay and Sennen Cove. I was able to get a breakfast at the cove before reaching Land’s End where I delivered my remaining envelopes. It had been an eventful few weeks during a time that tests one’s generosity and belief in charity. I had at least made a good fist of it, though there is still more work to do in weeks ahead. I had met good people who had not yet given up on humanity and who instilled faith in me to do the job. I can only thank those who have been kind to me, and appeal to the local community to support this worthy cause. If only to put a pound in one of my envelopes, or spend two hours a week doing something for charity – if we all did the latter, the world would be a better place!

PLEASE SUPPORT ROBIN’S CAUSE

By making a donation online at the children’s website (fundraising events)

www.chsw.org.uk      

or by sending back his donation envelopes complete with Robin Moore sticker to:Mary Murfin,

Precious Lives Appeal,

8 Walsingham Place,

Truro

Cornwall,

TR1 2RP

NEWSLETTER – SUMMER SEASON 2009

MAIN EVENT

SOUTH-WEST PILGRIMAGE

FOR CHILDREN’S HOSPICE SOUTH WEST PRECIOUS LIVES APPEAL

1^st September travel to Minehead by train. Walk commences on the 2^nd September.

Porlock Weir

Lynton

Ilfracombe

Barnstaple

Westward Ho!

Bucks Mills/Clovelly

Morwenstow

Bude

Boscastle

Port Isaac

Padstow

Newquay

St Agnes

Hayle/St Ives

Zennor

St Just

Land’s End

Proceeds from the walk will help build ‘Little Harbour’ near St Austell, Cornwall’s first children’s hospice which will help provide care and support for life-limited children and their families across the South West. There are over 1000 children who need support from Children’s Hospice South West, yet at present the charity can only care for up to 400 families through its two hospices: Little Bridge House, in North Devon and Charlton Farm, in Somerset.

My aim will be to walk the southwest coast from Minehead to Land’s End raising awareness and funds for the cause, working where possible, with the media and local fundraising groups. There may also be an opportunity along the way to organise a few small events, and I am hoping to do one or two book signings if given the chance.

 In addition to the mandatory supply of sponsor forms and collection boxes distributed among our local supporters, I will endeavour to post over 1000 leaflets/donation envelopes throughout the region.

This journey will celebrate 21,000 miles that I have walked for charity since 1992, and we hope to post the event to the Children’s Hospice South West website for online donations worldwide.

Please visit: www.chsw.org.uk

Or contact Community Fundraiser, Mary Murfin:

Mary.murfin@chsw.org.uk

Tel:01872 261166

THE CORNISH PILGRIMAGE

SUPPORTING CORNWALL HOSPICE CARE

I am hoping to release THE CORNISH PILGRIMAGE BOOK in the autumn, though an online version is available from this website. As it was created in honour of Cornwall Hospice Care I would like to mark the occasion by walking a section of it.

 The Cornish Pilgrimage Walk has been designed to help raise funds/fundraising opportunity for Cornwall Hospice Care which provides palliative care for adults in Cornwall. I would like to invite members of the public to join me on any chosen part of the journey and assist in delivering a batch of donation slips. The event will take place between St Austell and Hayle. Starting on Wednesday 23rd September, the first leg will commence along The Pentewan Tramroad (later use the coast path) to Mevagissey; Thursday's walk will follow The Cornish Way to the King Harry Ferry: thereafter we will follow the Portreath Tramroad to Carharrack. On Friday we will take the Carmarth Route into Redruth and follow TheCornish Way to Cambourne and Hayle. 

LOCAL FUNDRAISING

Fundraising events and auctions have been arranged via the local communities of Carharrack and Lanner: we will also be looking for support in St Agnes, Comford and St Ives. The Carharrack Stars have again generously offered their support to the campaign and publicans John and Margaret will be treasurers with a pledge to raise funds for our children’s hospice. Margaret says she expects the pub to help raise £2000 towards the effort.

As well as local support I am hopeful the walk will serve as a voice beyond Cornwall itself. I feel recognition outside of our kingdom is one that could prove invaluable in the future.

ADDITIONAL FUNDRAISING CHALLENGES 2009

The Cornish Pilgrimage will also be a valuable future project aimed at attracting outdoor adventure tourists to the region. All money from the ‘passport to walk scheme’ will go to hospice care in Cornwall. We are now at the stage to negotiate support for this project from the council and wider sections of the community.

CANCER RESEARCH

A minimum sum of a thousand pounds has been pledged to Cancer Research UK by locals in Oundle: this amount will represent  Robin Moore’s Summer challenge for the region in 2009. Any one wishing to make a donation towards Robin's efforts for Cancer Research UK, please contact Chloe Higgins, regional fundraising executive:   chloe.higgins@cancer.org.uk

Otherwise donations can be made at The Norwich and Peterborough Building Society in Oundle. Sponsor forms will also be available at some of the local inns from August onwards.

AFRICA 2009/2010

There is a possibility of a challenge walk in South Africa later this year: it will co-inside with our Barmy Army Cricket tour of the country when England play the host nation in a four test series. We aim to raise funds to build a youth cricket school in a township in the Western Cape. Oundle Cricket Coach Merwe Genis, who is a founder of Youth cricket in Paarl, South Africa will spearhead the project. I hope to walk from Namibia to Cape Point (and then on to Newlands Cricket Ground) to raise £3,000 for cricket equipment/coaching.  

BOOK TITLES 2009

THE ADVENTURES OF ROBIN MOORE

WALKING THE GARDEN ROUTE (South Africa)

THE ROBIN MOORE GREAT BRITAIN WALK (Vol 1.)

THE PORTUGUESE CAMINO

THE ROBIN MOORE BARMY ARMY WALK

 THE ISLE OF MAN ON FOOT

A PILGRIM’S JOURNEY (Based on a Cornish Pilgrimage Walk)

THE CORNISH PILGRIMAGE WALK (A Hospice Care project)

BOOK SIGNINGS AT OUNDLE

A book-signing day, featuring the first 3 titles above took place at Oundle School Bookshop on Farmers' Market Day Saturday July 11th. Our next signing will be in October, featuring the epic Barmy Army Walk of 2008. Other pilgrimage adventures are to be released soon.

CORNWALL

These titles can also be purchased from the Country Store Health Foods in Redruth (Redruth Health Shop): they are available at Cornwall Education Library: other titles can be purchased from Redruth Indoor Market Army/Navy Store. The Cornish Pilgrimage could be available for the Southwest Walk, and we also hope to walk a section of it to fundraise for Cornwall Hospice Care towards the end of September.

The publication of last years BARMY ARMY walk will be on sale by October (end of my hospice walk).

www.barmyarmy.com

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Many thanks to Paul Coles and Diane Kohn for their much-valued support: their hard work has ensured the success of these projects.

I would like to say a special thanks to Ann Newman whose handmade cards provide a valuable contribution towards our Cancer Research UK campaign.

TOPIC OF THE MONTH

POLITICS AND CHARITY

During my time on the road throughout this remarkable economic downturn, I have witnessed many difficulties faced by ordinary people whose voices of apathy echo throughout the land. We ourselves struggle to raise money to keep our smaller charities afloat. Without these charities the NHS would be under greater pressure to support the sick.

With all this borne in mind and the issue over MP’s expenses, I still can’t help but raise a bemused, yet hopeful smile. After all hope exists in the spirit of us all, and because it does, we can achieve our objectives despite the heavy odds stacked against us: often by those with greater power.

Throughout my campaign which first began in 1992 (the first 2 years of which I was at college), I have always seen the way clear to funding all my projects and pride myself on the fact that I’ve managed to do this on a very small income: sometimes less than £5,000 per year. Forty percent of my earnings in the nineties, when working in the shipping refit business, went towards financing my charity projects. All funds raised from the public went to the appropriate charity: this has been the most difficult part of my campaign: fearing I would not earn enough to pay for each walk.

It has been a bit tight at times to say the least, and I have appreciated any outside help from friends, family and local businesses who have supported the larger events that would not have happened otherwise. Since starting I have spent over £32,000 of my own income/savings funding all charity projects. One may almost make the analogy of 5 loaves and 3 fishes given my small income, which is food for thought as we all ponder over the many thousands of pounds squandered on the champagne lifestyles of our political rulers. Although I have struggled to fund larger events: I have been rewarded with the knowledge that I have helped national organisations worldwide raise millions of pounds (my own expenses/ efforts in fundraising run close to £100,000).

I believe we are all capable of following dreams or achieving our goals: it’s a crime simply to do nothing with the gift of life. If we all did just 2 hours a week for charity/helping another, then the world would eventually become a better place. We cannot expect people to adopt the virtues of altruism, but at the same time we should not blame our position in life as the reason for doing nothing. Yes of course there are those in high places who think they are entitled to use the tax- payers money as a ‘perk’. Some of these people have claimed more in expenses for one year than I could have earned in the last ten! I could say ‘I’m in the wrong job’, but I won’t. Instead I will end by saying how honoured I feel to represent these wonderful charities that were founded to help those less fortunate, and that every penny I have spent has merely enriched my life with a broader understanding of humanity as well as emboldening me with a sense of purpose. Maybe one day some of the kingdom’s heavy weights or so-called pillars of commerce may humble themselves enough to serve a little penance (free of expenses) for the good of humanity.

Mission Statement by Robin Moore:

‘As a proud representative of all endurance athletes, I will endeavour to fulfil each long distant walking challenge that may benefit a worthy cause associated with cancer care and research.’

   www.robin-moore.co.uk

THANK YOU FOR YOUR INTEREST AND ANY SUPPORT YOU HAVE GIVEN TO OUR LOCAL CHARITIES.

SPRING NEWSLETTER 2009-04-17

RECENT WALK

Feeling tired and a sense of relief having completed another thousand-mile hike, (5,000 over the last calendar year) this time along the Mediterranean coast, I made my way back to Plymouth in time for Easter.

It had been a challenging journey posing different tests compared to recent ones over the last year. Reaching great cities such as Sevilla meant retreating along the river bank in order to find a pedestrian crossing into the place as all else carried motorway instructions. After another week in the mountains and a hazardous entry into Malaga, I concluded my best option was to hug the coastline using the most amenable access. This provided some formidable walking/climbing, which was at times hazardous with no facilities to offer comfort. The road at its best offered rewarding vista as it spiralled round the mountains of Caboneras, one of many National Park areas that provide interesting sites and points of interest.

Camping throughout the greater part of the journey left me feeling a bit jaded through lack of sleep and managing on snack food for most of the time. The weather was kind and so were the people who always seemed happy to help me.

It had been a memorable journey as I had endeavoured to walk 5,000 miles in one calendar year, and on finishing, I retired to The Pilgrim’s best-known ‘Habitacion’ at the Pension ‘Rua del Villa’in Santiago where Maria made me welcome, providing a comfortable stay before I returned home.

In the last twelve months I have walked around the North Island in New Zealand, Portugal, Spain as far as the province of Valencia, and crossed all the Celtic Kingdoms of the British Isles (including Isle of Man) during The Barmy Army Cricket Road Show 2008.

WALKING PORTFOLIO

AROUND THE BRITISH ISLES (Circling the whole kingdom)– 12,000 miles

AROUND EUROPE (France, Cataluna, Spain, Portugal) – 5,000 miles

AUSTRALASIA (New Zealand) – 3,000 miles

SOUTH AFRICA (Coast-to-Coast) – 1,000 miles

PUBLICATIONS 2009

THE ROBIN MOORE GREAT BRITAIN WALK (Vol 1).

WALKING THE GARDEN ROUTE (South Africa)

THE PORTUGUESE CAMINO (Portugal/Spain)

These publications are available for sale: the first 2 were launched from Oundle School Bookshop in February: The Portuguese Camino will also be launched with a book-signing day in May.

Cornish Bookshops in Truro, Penzance, Newquay are among many places were these publications can be purchased. For more information contact 01209 821 025.or 07706197209.

For Oundle correspondence phone: 07906705088 (calls only – text messaging unavailable).

Mobile:07706197209.

Email: robin-moore@hotmail.co.uk

FUTURE PUBLICATIONS

THE BARMY ARMY WALK is still scheduled for the ‘ASHES SHOWDOWN’ and will be available on our winter tour in South Africa.

There is a possibility of a further two books reaching the shelf before the end of the year. And we hope to reactivate our online publishing service which is both low cost and innovative.

FUNDRAISING WALK

A fundraising walk of the south west in aid of supporting our children’s hospice in Cornwall is the focus of our charity work this year and a number of sub-challenges/ events are already in place. I will endeavour to provide fundraising support and media attention for Cancer Research UK where I hope our local inns/businesses in Oundle will rise to our challenge.

THANK YOU FOR SHOWING AN INTEREST

NEWSLETTER

WINTER 2009

THE ADVENTURES OF ROBIN MOORE

NEW PUBLICATIONS

Five new books will be published this year covering the adventures of Robin Moore who has walked over 20,000 miles around the world over the last ten years (Quite a hobby!!). Last year saw him complete 4,000 miles including a walk around the north island of New Zealand; the length of Portugal (latest leg of his tour of Southern Europe); and The Barmy Army walk of England, which raised £2,000 for cancer care in Cornwall and donations to Cancer Research UK. The event was part of the Barmy Army Cricket Road Show which was aimed at raising cancer awareness and media coverage for ‘A Chance to Shine’: part of our youth cricket development.

In autumn 2008, Robin walked around Ireland and The Isle of Man to complete a circle of the British Isles, which accounts for 12,000 miles of his travels. Most of these walks have supported Cancer Care and Research. As well as valuable media exposure, often linked to National fundraising, he has himself orchestrated/raised in excess of £100,000.

Robin has also walked New Zealand, coast-to-to-coast of South Africa and in March will set off from France to Portugal to complete his travels around the southern region of the continent.

He aims to walk round the remainder of the EEC and the Commonwealth over the next 5 years.

COMMUNICATION:

The Newsletter acknowledges the following people for valuable support in helping Robin achieve his goals/deadlines:

Paul Coles, Oundle

Sarah Webb, Craftythings, Oundle

Creative Company, Flag Fen, Peterborough.

Oundle Bookshop

BOOK TITLES

The first two titles released today at Oundle School Bookshop are:

Robin Moore’s Great Britain Walk, (Vol 1).

Walking The Garden Route (South Africa).

These are available from the bookshop now and a signing day is arranged for Saturday 14^th February at 10am.

Many Thanks to Creative Company, Flag Fen, Peterborough, for their excellent production.

OTHER NEW TITLES

These include a series of Pilgrimages, Travels in Ireland and of course our recent ‘Barmy Army’ Walk.

Most book titles are also available online as a ‘Download’ from EBOOKS at:

www.robin-moore.co.uk

CHARITY WORK AND THE FUTURE

Seen as a pioneer endurance walker from the early days of Imperial Cancer Research and fortunate enough to set off around New Zealand on its rebirth as Cancer Research UK, I have seen the changes within the organisation that now looks set to be the most productive charity in the UK. It is also good to see the knock on effect, particularly from younger people who have followed my progress over the years and are now playing a full part in the fundraising agenda. Borne as a product of health/fitness, events such as The Relay for Life have proved a successful formula in recent years. Exercise maintains health and endurance events are still a popular mechanism in raising funds for charity.

‘Despite my efforts being limited as a one-man band, it is still rewarding to know I raise several thousand pounds per year for Cancer Charities from local resources alone’. I am now looking to build up a huge campaign for Hospice Care in Cornwall starting this Spring. I will deliver leaflets/donation slips, and help organise local events to function off the back of my walks/media coverage.

.

AIMS AND OBJECTIVES FOR 2009

1. Complete tour of Southern Europe.

2. Launch The Cornish Pilgrimage on behalf of Cornwall Hospice Care.

3. Raise awareness for Cancer Research/Care through media coverage.

4. Raise funds via ‘sweepstakes’/ auctions/donation forms.

5. Publish 5 books about my adventures.

Online publications, newsletters and diaries will be updated each season.

Books are sold to help fund personal charity work/walks.

Any one wishing to sponsor Robin please contact via email or on:

07906 705088 (calls only - no text service).

mobile: 07706197209

Email: robin-moore@hotmail.co.uk

THANK YOU FOR TAKING AN INTEREST

ROBIN MOORE'S WALK OF PORTUGAL - APRIL 2008

Day 1 Faro to Albufeira

It was a wet and windy start in Faro and the poncho was employed immediately after leaving the airport. The first test was to find a signpost to Lagos. This took a journey into Faro and a visit to a nearby hotel before I got the show underway. It meant an hour or two along the main road until reaching the sliproad to Albufeira.

Now I was in business and the afternoon a fair one with sunshine and a comforting breeze. Stopping at a local store for bottled water I continued until nightfall along the amiable coast roads which harboured many small villages and numerous orchards of orange trees.

At Albuferia I was pleasantly surprised at the English-speaking natives who were very helpful and guided me to a little hotel beyond the town centre which gave shelter and included breakfast for just 25 euros. I returned to the town for a pint and a chat to a fellow who I'd met earlier, who gave the impression this was a very popular region for English tourists. After a brief social interaction and a chance to rest my feet I returned to enjoy an evening of cheese and wine as I contemplated the days of walking to come.

Day 2 Albufeira to Lagos

After breakfast I enjoyed a sunny start but still faced more difficullties in finding the correct route. The city roads were not well signposted though once I found the correct coast route I managed with basic geography and a simple map.

The coast route was slightly longer but rewarding in scenery and less traffic to contend with. I crossed a lengthy suspension bridge, which though not quite the standard of the Brunel epitaph, was well-built and a grand contribution to the region. Generally progress has grown to embrace the needs of tourism which has made the Algarve a more sumptuous and sought-after part of Portugal.

With darkness approaching I hastened into Lagos which to many is deemed the capital of the Algarve.

It was well lit up along the promenade and I managed to find a little residencial where the lady put me up for 15 euro. After a clean up I retired to  a bar where a dutch man and English couple told me of the difficult but scenic journey I would encounter tomorrow. It sounded quite a challenge - but then that's me - I couldn't wait!

Day 3 Lagos to Odeceixe

Starting early and making good progress I stopped after 10km and enjoyed a fruit breakfast. Later along the busier mainroad which was steep and winding I had difficulty in obtaining water and some of the locals refused to fill my water bottle. The hilly ground was less populated but a guy next to a windmill helped and gave me plenty of water to drink and fill for later.

I did well to reach Aljezur by 3pm and decided it was too early to finish. Pressing on into the evening I stopped to bathe under a fountain and at dusk found a place to stay in a lovely little village called Odeceixe.

Day 4 Odeceixe to Almogrove

Having discussed my route with a German guy who knew the area I set of along a coast path which would form most of my route for today. I spoke with an English lad who was out here on holiday. He was a carpenter by trade and enjoying a break from hectic life in the UK.

The whole morning was an arduous affair and particularly difficult ascending to these secluded shores. Eventually I found a town and it was by now 3.30pm and I had barely made any signicant advance. Seeking advise from a local guy I next proceeded along a very straight and flat coastal track.

Toward the end of the afternoon I had reached Vila Nova de Milfontes junction and had to make a decision regarding the route. Foolishly I opted for the coast trail and it was a disaster. There was no trail after a mile or so and I should have turned back. I clambered over rocks, struggled in deep sand dunes, eventually sighting a village which required trundeling through gorse and other rural delights.

I should have decided to call it a day but continued in hope of finding the trail to Vila Nova. I found a trail and on reaching the coast 2 hours later in the dark realised it was a one -way journey to a coast point with no other links. Sadly I had to walk back and crossing some barbed wire I took a short cut back to Almogrove where I found an inn and promptly retired for some fluid. After a drink I felt hungry and ordered a meal. I felt despondent at walking so far and yet achieving so little. I was ready to crash out on a nearby bench and make for the road to Vila Nova and beyond at first light. Whilst contemplating the task a guy came across and offered to help. He had worked in England for several years and offered to put me up in his shed which was great. He said he would also drop some maps of in the morning before I leave so as to use the best roads available for the journey.

Day 5 Almogrove to Costa de St Andre

I was grateful for this good man's help and thanked him for his trouble. Despite a severe initiation to the day along the main road I reached Vila Nova in just over an hour, stopping for a coffee and a chance to study the proposed route for the day.

After clearing the main urban district I picked up the coast road and continued to Porto Covo.

Porto Covo was a lovely little village with good amenities and I managed to find a bank which was paramount!

On resuming - by chance I ran into the carpenter from England who I met on the clifftop yesterday. We stopped and chatted awhile and he mentioned he would be finishing his tour at Faro.   

Beyond here was a mix of coast walking and industrial roads spurring off to Sines where dual carriageway emerged to form my route to Vila Nova de St Andre.

Finishing this journey at nightfall I was amazed how the dual carriageway just disappeared leaving a quiet town with only two hotels. Taking the one nearest my exit route I then returned for a meal at a nearby restaurant. The owner was interested in my walk and bought a book about my New Zealand adventure. He then went on to explain how he was promoting Nordic walking: he also provided me with an excellent meal and a couple of beers. From here it was sleep and thoughts of what tomorrow might bring.

Day 6 St Andre to Comporta

A tough day lay ahead borne from the burden of a 50lb pack which has caused blisters and general wear and tear to my body.

It took a while to get going but the transition of dual carriageway to a battered single track road led to a more pleasant day. I appreciated stops at Melides, Carvahal and finally Comporta where I met a German cyclist called Ryn who shared accommodation with me at the local hotel, and later we enjoyed a meal at a bar he knew from his previous journey through Portugal.

Day 7

Comporta to Pinnal Nova

I had enjoyed a pleasant evening with my German friend and the locals who were still recovering from the excitement of the football as I parted from a nearby cafe where I managed a quick breakfast before setting of for the ferry.

Water flanked both sides of the road as I neared the port which was barely noticable given the presence of serious construction work.

Eventually I crossed on the ferry to Setubal where the hot sunshine later turned to heavy rain. In addition I got lost, losing half a day in the process. When I finally sorted the problem I was only able to progress as far as Pinnal Novo - a short distance from Setubal. In dark windy weather I managed to camp in a field just outside the town - not far from the Villa Franca road junction. 

Day 8 Pinnal Nova to Porto Alto

Luckilly the rain and wind had subsided by morning and by 7am I had left the busy main road to join a quieter route where I found a cafe and enjoyed a good breakfast.

I stopped again later before joining the N118 which turned into a journey from hell which could only have been savoured by a madman! After  20km of traffic-dodging culminating in wet weather I decided to call it a day. I settled at the hotel by Villa Franca N10 route and enjoyed a proper shower and rest.

Day 9 Porto Alto to Santarem

I enjoyed a hearty breakfast but did not much like the look of the Villa Franca road and deciding to stick with 'the devil you know' I continued my journey along the N118.

This was a better experience today as the route took in many small places and allowed more frequent breaks and respite from the usual thunderous sprawl of trucks.

Two ladies maintaining the garden area of a nearby park gave me a sturdy refuse bag to help keep my gear dry.'Esta a chover em breve' we all agreed and on that note I caped up once more for the on-coming wet weather.

It only amounted to shower weather today and I enjoyed a long journey to Almoirim where at dusk I walked the remaining 10km which included the crossing of a large bridge into Santarem. The bridge was undergoing some maintenance and on reaching the town I continued down to the railway station in the next village. Here I stopped for water and unsure of my route I considered resting at the nearby restaurant. I did walk on for a bit more climbing the hill to my left only to findout I had practically walked back into the town and two local guys put me right. One had been to Canada recently and knew some English and I was grateful for theitr help. Once back at the railway station I crossed to the cafe and to my astonishment they were able to give me a room for the night for just 10euros! This was a better option than camping on what had been a testing period of the walk and my feet were in alot of discomfort.

Day 10 Santarem to T Novas

Despite wet feet I managed to sleep and after breakfast at the cafe I set off feeling mildly unscathed despite the wet weather which had dominated the last few days.

Continuing through the smaller villages the first of which was Alconhoes, I was advised by locals to follow the Fatima route via Torres Novas rather than the mountain camino through Golega.

Initially it was a quiet carriageway along the N3 with plenty of places to stop at including a busy town where at a nearby cafe the locals were enjoying an English football match.

Pressing on I felt good for another 2/3 hours but after a heavy week I owed it to myself to break early today. At the motorway junction I found a little guest house where the Proprieter was Canadian and spoke perfect English. She went to give me her sister's restaurant details in Faro for my next visit. She was very kind and knowing I was on a budget and in fact low on cash at that time, let have a room at a lower rate. It was a lovely place and later she directed me to a bar where I got an excellent meal for 7 euros.   

Day 11 T Novas to Leidra

Leaving in more wet weather I enjoyed the first stage of the day stopping at a cafe after completing 14km. The lady was kind to me and made me a sandwich for later.

More dark clouds approached as I followed the footpath to Fatima where I was greeted by other pilgrims and a horrendous downpour. As the heavens opened I took refuge at one of many tourist shops and once over I progressed to the Citadel where I received direction to Leidra from a Canadian girl working at the Tourist office.

It brightened up a little as I continued to Leidra reaching the city before dusk and finding a room in the centre of town. It was owned by a French Guy whom I conversed with in his native language. Later I ate at a restaurant which was expensive compared to my previous evning meal.

Day 12 Leidra to Coimbra Region

Leaving amid April showers I joined the N2 carraigeway which although busy was a reasonable route to walk. Passing only small communities I enjoyed the brief encounters with locals and the chance to rest at local cafes. This was also a pilgrim route used mostly by those heading for Fatima, but it also forms part of the Portuguese Camino which breaks off onto smaller roads and rural trails.

 Coimbra was still another 30km so I settled at a solitary roadside bar which offered basic accommodation for 8euros. I also enjoyed a pleasant meal and a few glasses of wine. 

Day 13 Coimbra to Melidra

It was sunny as I left the little cafe/bar and headed off on a busy N2 which was also now patronised by a group of pilgrims heading for Fatima. Throughout the morning I dodged the traffic but enjoyed a lovely visit to Coimbra where I rested for lunch.

In the afternoon I followed the Camino Portuguese and after stopping in Melidra to buy some groceries I found a hostel/restaurante where I stayed the night.

Day 14 Melidra to Oliviera

Despite wet conditions it remained reasonable enough for walking and I enjoyed the passage along the Portuguese Camino which was a mixture of rural enterprise and the N2.

At least I was never far from a cafe or shop and I stopped frequently on this long journey which also took in great towns as well as village life.

The final push to Oliviera proved a difficult session and a hazardous one too along the unforgiving N2. I was glad to reach the town which sadly had nothing to offer in terms of accommodation. With the town seemingly blighted by industry I gave up searching and took refuge in an inn above the town. I had considered camping in the ground beyond the village. But once inside the inn every one rallied round and helped as best they could. The owner was very kind and served a nice meal and a group of locals made calls to see if there was a campsite. One kind lad Vasco Tavares paid for my evening meal and beer and conversed with me in English. They were great people helping me in my hour of need and the landlord offered to put me up in his garriage which was wonderful as it meant I could get of to an early start tomorrow. Vasco had been a great friend though sadly I lost his email address which meant I could not thank him properly.

Day 15 Oliviera to Porto

The people here had been so kind in offering a stranger good company and support in the latter stages of my journey. I was now set to walk the remaining section of the N2 to Porto to complete my journey of Portugal. I had walked the camino to Santiago last year so this last section of the N2 is now all that remains to be walked of the Portuguese Camino.

It was sunny and I enjoyed several stops as city life began to emerge with towns merging and the flow of traffic building up.

It was quite an event crossing the Douro Bridge into Porto where the town is a mixture of rundown terraces and exuberent riverside tourism.

I was joined by a local fireman on the final leg to the bus terminal as I was uncertain where to go. It was kind of him to help as I was clueless of the location. Luckilly I had 10 minutes before the last bus to Santiago. Tomorrow was a Bank Holiday in Portugal which meant I would have ben stranded here for at least 2 more days! I can say I enjoyed a pleasant scenic journey which enabled me to reflect on the previous fortnight. It was also great to visit once more the spiritual icon of Santiago where I was able to enjoy an atmosphere derived from eternal pilgrimages and my friend Maria, who owns a nearby pension, made me most welcome during my short stay. 

NEW ZEALAND 2008

PHASE 3

THE THERMAL REGION

Having completed two walks in New Zealand and walked most of the ...   more »